Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou can be a stupendous wine…or it can leave you scratching your head. On the nose, this bottle shows a little more brettanomyces than others that I have tasted, though it dissipates with aeration to reveal blackberry, mint and light herbal notes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little chewy and rustic compared to recent vintages, plenty of tobacco, tea leaf and smoky notes, but just a bit stunted on the finish when you expect it to fan out. I have had better examples of the 1982 over the years, even if it has curiously never been one of my favourite examples of this feted vintage. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château.