White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Rather inexpressive on the nose, hinting at soft citrus fruits. Then powerfully minerally in the mouth in spite of a rather silky texture, with strong acidity contributing to the impression of energy. Still youthfully compact, and best today on the very dry, very long finish, where the wine’s superb density calls for extended aging. The acidity here, according to Boillot, is 5.85 grams per liter-certainly one of the higher numbers I heard in Burgundy this spring. (Incidentally, Boillot opened a bottle of the 2002 Clos de la Mouchere for me that was still a couple of years short of its peak. It did not show the surmaturite displayed by so many whites from this vintage. As we enjoyed this wine, Boillot commented that his top 2000s were too young to drink but that his 2001s were developing faster than he would have predicted at the outset. And he recommended drinking his 2005s before his 2002s due to hydric stress in 2005.