White-on-White: Porseleinberg 2010-2020 (Nov 2023)

The 2019 Porseleinberg saw 415mm of rain, slightly more than previous years and cool growing conditions so that volumes were higher and the harvest could be conducted at a more leisurely pace, based upon tasting grapes in the vineyard. Matured for 12 months in 90% foudres and 10% concrete eggs, this has a peppery and spicy bouquet: bouquet garni, cracked black pepper and a touch of fennel. It’s an absolute doppelgänger for a Côte-Rôtie. The palate is medium-bodied and broad-shouldered due perhaps to slightly higher residual sugar, with layers of black fruit laced with white pepper and clove, segueing into a more savory finish with touches of meat juice. There is captivating precision here, a brilliant Porseleinberg.