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Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 2010 Haut-Bailly was served at dinner following the Giscours vertical. This has a powerful and almost primal bouquet with copious scents of black cherries, crushed stones and violets—the latter perhaps more prominent than previous bottles. The palate is, again, perhaps due to impeccable provenance, backward and obviously a decade away from its peak. But…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Very ripe, rich aromas of tangerine, smoke and sweet butter. Big, frothy and full, with slightly exotic, creamy flavors of soft citrus fruits and nutmeg framed and lifted by strong minerally acidity. Very dry, firm and long on the finish, hinting at more flavor complexity to come with further time in bottle.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Very pale, bright color. Knockout nose of lemon, orange blossom, chalk, minerals and flowers offers great lift; pristine and vibrant. Wonderfully ripe, pure and perfumed in the mouth, with penetrating, sappy acidity contributing to the impression of structure and cut. Very intense lemon, lime, mineral and floral flavors complicated by an exotic suggestion of guava….

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 69/31 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 72 IPT; 3.81 pH; 13.7% alcohol) Deep, bright ruby-purple. Classic highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, violet, crushed stone and gunflint. Bright, clean and concentrated but currently backward, with densely packed black fruit and mineral flavors displaying a wonderfully precise, penetrating quality. Finishes long and subtle, with an…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cassis, cedar, smoke, leather, game and bitter chocolate. Dense, chewy and dry, with good peppery lift to the cherry skin and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with surprisingly fine-grained tannins and a juicy quality. This dry, classic claret needs time in bottle to gain flesh and sweetness….