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A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel seems to have exaggerated its Pauillac-like aromatics since I last tasted it, with strong pencil lead/graphite aromas that threaten to dominate the black fruit. The palate is quite refined. Though this old-school Saint-Estèphe has some hard edges to contend with, there is plenty of sapidity and real depth towards the finish….

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Talbot is far superior on the nose to the previous three Saint-Juliens. Finally, much more delineation and mineralité, blackberry and light pencil box scents coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, supple in the mouth, more savoury than expected, with a touch of bitterness right on the finish. Tasted…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Pavie is now showing a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is a little Bretty though not the worst you will find, with red berry fruit, menthol, star anise and light tarry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a rather medicinal but decent entry, quite dense tannins and a heady, opulent finish….

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright dark ruby. Expressive, soil-driven aromas of blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and minerals. Bright and juicy, with flinty black fruit and mineral flavors nicely framed by harmonious acidity. Finishes lightly saline and energetic, with dusty, fine-grained tannins. Very nicely balanced Montrose but I hope the tannins won’t outlive the fruit.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Montrose has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grainy tannins. Yes, a little green around the edges, but there is satisfying freshness on the finish, and it has a lilting quality. I have to say, after the brilliant Montrose in the previous…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2002 Cuvée S is wild and exotic, as it always has been. All of the intensity of a year marked by elevated ripeness in the Chardonnays comes through loud and clear. Soaring floral overtones, candied citrus and tropical notes open first, before clean veins of Mesnil minerality pull it all together on the mid-palate…