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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, dark red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, pepper, spices, menthol and rose petal. At once silky and bright on entry, then classically dry and a bit youthfully clenched in the middle, with its flavors of raspberry liqueur, minerals, chocolate and licorice in need of serious bottle aging to expand. This very ripe but energetic…

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

Bright, deep red. Refined aromas of raspberry, crushed stone and white pepper, plus a whiff of white fruits. A step up in cut and tangy intensity from the foregoing samples, offering much more inner-mouth tension and energy. At once creamy and taut; here the vineyard stands up to the vintage character. Less thick and more…

Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru (Jan 2025)

What a pleasure it is to taste Raveneau’s 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru. Floral overtones lead into hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers, marzipan, mint and white pepper, all framed by a discreet touch of oak. The 2016 has come together beautifully over the last few years, seemingly gaining mid-palate weight in bottle. Even…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is more reticent and perhaps not quite as complex as the Blanchots on the nose, but with aeration reveals gorgeous scents of dried flowers, hints of honeysuckle and beeswax. In the mouth Valmur is very well balanced and tightly wound, but there is enormous concentration on the back palate…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Pale yellow. Slightly exotic on the nose for Valmur, offering aromas of orange zest, lemon and spices. Then wonderfully silky in the mouth, delivering a sexy sweetness to its pliant flavors of citrus fruits and ginger. The yield here was an almost normal 40 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 25 to 30 for the Blanchots…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru has a creamy nose with touches of white chocolate, almond and chamomile. However, considering the vineyard in question, I would have liked more mineralité and terroir expression. A bit of alcoholic warmth develops in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Tightly coiled citrus fruit,…