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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 1998 Dom Ruinart Rosé is in the zone. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, incense, licorice, dried herbs, chocolate, orange peel and game lend a decidedly exotic flair. The 1998 is perhaps a touch lithe, but it is so expressive. The blend includes 20% still Pinot, and that very much comes through in the wine’s strong…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has an attractive and quite medicinal bouquet of black cherries, cassis, peppermint and light violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, still medicinal in style with a core of savoury, dried-blood-tinged black fruit. The finish is just a bit short. Fine.

Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Sociando-Mallet is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc picked between September 10 and 24. It was aged in new oak barrels for 11 months. Coming from the north Médoc, it would have enjoyed onshore breezes that mitigated the summer heat. The bouquet shows no signs of that…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

: Good medium ruby-red color. More grilled on the nose than the 2004 or 2005: superripe black fruits and bitter chocolate. Then liqueur-like verging on confectionery in the mouth, but with surprisingly healthy acids giving shape to the dominant black fruit flavors. At once velvety and quite powerful, with the fine-grained tannins currently conveying a…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Ruby-red. Captivating strawberry and violet aromas speak of the cabernet franc component, but there is also a noticeable and clever use of new oak here. Dense, supple and luscious in the mouth, with rich flavors of red cherry, red berries and vanilla that last and last. Finishes with light peppery…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Ruby-red. Captivating strawberry and violet aromas speak of the cabernet franc component, but there is also a noticeable and clever use of new oak here. Dense, supple and luscious in the mouth, with rich flavors of red cherry, red berries and vanilla that last and last. Finishes with light peppery…