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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel, the 2015 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is a very serious second wine. The Clarence captures the personality of the vintage at Haut-Brion with terrific eloquence. An infusion of black cherry, mocha, tobacco, chocolate and violet leads into the dark, virile finish. What a gorgeous wine…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Clarence Haut-Brion offers a dab of cough candy on the nose, with red fruit, kirsch and plum upfront. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and it coheres nicely in the glass. A touch of white pepper emerges toward the satisfyingly long finish. This is worth seeking out. Tasted blind at the 2015…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion does not have the joie-de-vivre of the La Chapelle de la Mission. It's more austere and tertiary on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, good weight and poise, a keen line of acidity and a precise finish. This is worth seeking out. Tasted at the 2015…

Looking Back at the 2005 & 2004 Brunellos (Oct 2016)

Ten years out, the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli has also developed nicely, but at the same time, it isn’t markedly different from the straight bottling. The flavors are darker and more intense, while the wine has more overall structure. I am not sure about the rationale of bottling a Riserva in 2005.

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Dark full red. Deep, superripe nose dominated by chocolate and animal fur; could hardly be more different from the ’98. Then sweeter, fatter and full-blown in the mouth, clearly the product of a very warm summer. Surprisingly complex for a wine this ripe, with superb depth of red cherry flavor. Wonderfully round, velvety and long.

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Full, saturated ruby, by a wide margin the darkest of these ’97s. Spicy, high-pitched aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, flint and tar. Densely packed but currently tightly wound and dominated by its structure. Shows a restrained sweetness and complicating hints of leather, flint and tar. More tannic than the Mouline or Turque but here,…