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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Margaux is a compelling, arrestingly beautiful wine that expresses all the best qualities of the vintage. Dark, fleshy and richly textured, the 2015 nevertheless retains the super-classic Margaux sense of structure. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s rich, multi-faceted personality. I imagine the 2015 will enjoy a very long and uninterrupted…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Château Margaux has a seductive and absorbing bouquet with more red fruit, sous-bois, black olive and light seaweed scents that are beautifully defined and intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy, cohesive and powerful entry. This really lacquers the mouth with its tannins, yet there is a surfeit of freshness with a…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Château Margaux, which comes in a quite stunning engraved bottle, has an equally stunning bouquet with blackberry, pencil box and light sous-bois scents, less minty than I noticed a few years ago. The palate has exquisite balance and poise, fresh red and black fruit commingling, curry leaf and light tobacco notes emerging toward…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Figeac has a comparatively extravagant nose with vivid red cherries, strawberry, blood orange and light rosemary scents, very Saint-Émilion in style. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain, supple tannins. This is framed by a keen line of acidity, closing in towards the concentrated and peppery finish. Long-term. Tasted blind at the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been a long time since I encountered a bottle of 1995 Léoville Barton. It has a mature, slightly fungal bouquet, a little smudged and certainly without the precision or complexity of the 1995 Ducru Beaucaillou. Yet it develops a heart-warming camphor note with aeration, allied with used tea leaves. The palate is medium-bodied…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2012 La Grande Dame is a dense, powerful Champagne. Now with a few years post-disgorgement, the 2012 is starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. Dried pear, chamomile, spice, light honey and marzipan are beautifully amplified throughout. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, with the weight of Pinots from…