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Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

I have always been a little mean to the 1961 Lafite-Rothschild that was fated to lie in the shadow of Latour and Mouton-Rothschild. However, this is definitely the best bottle that I have encountered. With classic cedar and graphite scents and a faint touch of leather on the nose, this example heightens the marine influence—very…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Palish medium red. Raspberry, minerals, flowers and nutty oak on the nose. More aromatic than the Orveaux but still a bit unforthcoming. Then sweet, creamy and pliant in the mouth, with lovely sneaky depth of raspberry and floral flavor. Supple and long for the vintage, finishing with a suggestion of chocolatey oak. I’d give this…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

(from 65-year-old vines) Good medium red. Red cherry and flowers on the nose. The largest-scaled and densest of this set of 2004s, but light on its feet despite its volume, with tangy red raspberry, mineral and floral flavors. Finishes with very sweet tannins. Distinctly feminine wine with lingering perfume.

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated dark red. Deep, nuanced nose combines dark fruits, minerals and underbrush. Sweet and highly concentrated but tight and backward, even a bit sullen today; fruit and stone flavors are quite primary for the vintage. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and very good grip. May ultimately merit an even higher rating.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good medium red. Deep, sappy aromas of black cherry, minerals and smoked meat. Silky and thick on entry, then rich and vibrant in the middle palate, with no impression of excess weight. Finishes very long, with unusually silky tannins for the year. These 2004s are approachable from the start, although I would wait on this…

Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 1974-2010 (Feb 2021)

The 1999 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has an intense nose, a mixture of red and black fruit intermingling with white pepper and clove. Perhaps this is not quite as complex as I expected. The palate is medium-bodied and supple, red cherries mixed with black plum, fine acidity, slightly brawny in style but you…