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Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)

Pale golden yellow. Classy bouquet of ripe apple, vanilla and sweet herbs. Rich on the palate, with a salty, resinous character and undeniably sweet apricot fruit. Unctuous yet vibrantly spicy, with a long, complex finish. This still needs time but will be a great auslese.

Vinous Table: Brasserie Lipp, Paris, France (Jun 2015)

Two desserts might seem a little decadent for just one wine writer, but I couldn’t resist the 2002 Château Climens at an especially fair price on the short but well thought out wine list and so two desserts seemed the right thing to do. Politely styled but not shy on noble rot, this Climens from…

2003 and 2002 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2005)

Palish yellow. High-toned but quite closed on the nose today, hinting at honey and nuts. Then quite pure and aromatic in the mouth, offeringflavors of citrus fruits and honey. Perfumed and nicely delineated, if a bit sweeter and softer than I would have expected for this chateau in this vintage. Finishes long and lively.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2002 Climens, which contains 145g/L residual sugar, has a relatively simple nose with quite high-toned barley sugar and saffron scents. A bit like the 2003, it just misses a bit of Climens magic. The palate is balanced and tangy on the entry, something quite medicinal here with hints of liquorice and blood orange leading…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1985 Cos d’Estournel is another vintage that I have not encountered for a number of years. It is mature with wide bricking on the rim. The nose is not profound or intellectual, but it is engaging and involving with scents of warm gravel, terracotta-like scents that marry perfectly with the melted red fruit. The…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(72.5% cabernet sauvignon, 25.5% merlot and 2% petit verdot; 87 IPT, 14.3% alcohol, 40% of total production) Deep, almost opaque glass-staining ruby. Clove, cedar and herb notes on the nose, with black fruit aromas lurking underneath. Clean and fresh but presently dominated by oak, with black fruit and cedar flavors currently held in check. The…