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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is very well defined on the nose with Clementines, crushed stone, a touch of grapefruit and petrichor. It unfolds beautifully in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a slightly waxy opening, a judicious touch of spice, quite tangy towards the finish with a long ginger-tinged aftertaste. Powerful, for…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru conveys strictness and correctness on the nose compared to the more expressive and perhaps more aromatically elegant Blanchots. This is a little austere at first, but it warms up nicely and reveals subtle orange blossom and undergrowth scents. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, with hints of white…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)

Next to the super-refined, delicate 2006s, the 2005s come across as deeper and richer in personality. That is quite evident in the 2005 Échézeaux, a wonderfully lifted, precise Burgundy that is just starting to blossom. Today, the 2005 is all about nuance and detail. This is a terrific showing. Once again, in 2005 the Échézeaux…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Explosive aromas of redcurrant liqueur, tobacco, tar, minerals and chocolate, plus hints of decadent underbrush. Sweet redcurrant and mocha flavors show a slightly roasted aspect and elevated alcohol but also possess very good vinosity, with complicating soil tones adding nuance. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, with substantial tannins. I’d expect this seriously deep wine…

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 2002 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a wine that I have met for five years. Examining my previous note, this seems to have meliorated in recent years, displaying outstanding transparency on the nose, more mineralité than the 2002 Les Cras poured alongside (also blind). Perhaps there is a little more black fruit here than I…