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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with melted candle wax, yellow plum and lanolin aromas. I appreciate the typicité in this Corton Charlemagne, and it is well-defined. It’s one of the most intellectual aromatics that you have to sit and ponder. The palate is taut and fresh. There’s a clever reduction at…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 2005 d’Angludet is a vintage that did not impress when I tasted it just after bottling, though it has improved since then. This is clearly fresher than the 2003 that I tasted alongside, with bilberry and boot polish scents emerging with time. The palate has a sweet core of black fruit and a silky…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Léoville Barton is one of the few Saint-Julien wines to show a bit of sur-maturité on the nose. Hints of tinned prune infuse the black cherry fruit. The palate is ripe, very sweet and plush in style. It has a note of peppermint toward the finish that is rather distracting and otiose. Given…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal is just fabulous. Chiseled and nuanced to the core, the 2008 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, graphite, mint, lime, chalk and white flowers all race across the palate. This is classic Cristal in a cool, late-ripening year.

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby. Complex, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, dark cherry and raspberry are complicated by exotic notes of Oriental spices and soy sauce. Rich, tactile and sweet, offering intense, elegant dark fruit and spice flavors lifted by a saline nuance. Finishes with sweet tannins and lingering saline and smoky notes. This is deeper and fleshier than…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Haut-Brion has a really lovely, warm, autumnal nose with red fruit, chestnut, autumn leaves and Earl Grey scents. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a crisp line of acidity, maybe just a little austere on the finish, but there is fine focus with a delicately spiced, slightly medicinal finish….