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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru contains a little more new oak than the regular cuvée, though it is also 100% whole cluster fruit. It has a supremely well defined bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and wet limestone aromas that seem to gain intensity with aeration. The…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet that is in a league of its own against four other wines from Caillerets. Life-affirming delineation and mineralité, palpable energy, real race and class. The palate has just a tiny reduction that imparts energy and tension. Linear at first, it goes on and on…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru has an energetic, focused, flinty bouquet with a spring in its step. The terroir comes through beautifully. The palate is quite effervescent with crisp acidity and good tension. Citrus-fresh and vibrant towards the finish, this has a dash of spice lingering on the aftertaste. Superb. Tasted blind at…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes 75% from Chalumaux that was declassified in the late Seventies (there is a great story about why that happened, but I’ll leave it for another time). It has a delightful bouquet of green apple, white flowers and orange zest that bursts from the glass. The palate is well balanced with…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru contains two-thirds whole cluster but a little more new oak than the regular cuvée (as a reminder, it comes from the parcel that lies adjacent to La Tâche). It has a little more definition and darker fruit on the nose, developing more floral scents with aeration….

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a bit coy, having just been bottled two weeks ago. Mentholated herbs, exotic spices, dark red fruits, dusty roses and crushed stone can all be found. It’s silky, nearly creamy in feel, with cooling acidity to balance as notes of black cherry, plums and balsam herbs swirl throughout. This…