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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(bottled the day before my late-May visit): Orange juice, peach and a hint of spice on the nose. Pure and focused, with lovely acidity and calcaire-driven minerality giving the middle palate a very taut quality. Finishes precise and long, with excellent cut and grip. I’d wait four or five years to pull the cork.

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Arômes de Pavie is succulent, racy and full of personality. Sweet dark cherry, plum, mocha, new leather and rose petal all grace this silky, super-expressive second wine from Pavie. In an effort to raise the quality of the Arômes, since 2015 the wine includes fruit from four hectares of vineyards on the plateau…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Arômes de Pavie, the second wine from Pavie, is matured in 50% new oak for 16 or 17 months. It presents a ripe, opulent bouquet of very pure kirsch, blueberry and cassis aromas, becoming more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with some wood tannin on the entry and notes of dark…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru has a more complex bouquet than the Champ Tirant, certainly with more mineralité and terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little oaky and slightly reduced on the finish. Again, the winemaking M.O. just comes across a little…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(frost cut production by 30% in 2016): Pale yellow. The closest of these premier crus to exotic on the nose, offering scents of ripe peach, hazelnut and honey. Compellingly rich and sweet on the palate, but with its sucrosité leavened by a distinctly sappy quality. As dense and broad as this wine is, it also…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac has a wonderful bouquet, the best since the 2005. With copious brambly red berry fruit, cedar and mint—yes, very similar to previous bottles—there is simply more energy and focus from the benevolent growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and perfectly judged acidity, a little spicier than I recall with…