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Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Inky ruby. Smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits, violet, licorice and an olive nuance on the deeply perfumed nose. Stains the palate with intense cherry, blueberry and fruitcake flavors that are sharpened by a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Youthfully chewy tannins frame an impressively long, penetrating finish that leaves candied dark berry and…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Village comes from 50 different plots around 50 years old, the majority planted at the end of the 1960s. The simple but well-defined bouquet of Granny Smith apples is light and airy. The palate is crisp and taut with citrus lemon and saline notes. Very citric on the finish, and not long,…

Cellar Favorite: 1960, 1974 and New Releases of Château Musar (Apr 2023)

The 2017 Château Musar has a perfumed bouquet with well-defined plummy red fruit, fireside embers and pressed flower scents. A hint of VA in the background gives the aromatics a welcome kick. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity, harmonious, not powerful, yet full of flavor. A pleasing bitterness surfaces towards the…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 L’Évangile is tasted from two bottles, the first hideously corked. The second has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry and truffle. A welcome briny note becomes more pronounced with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and pure. A sweet core of fruit with an almost candied and very flattering…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 L'Évangile is a highly problematic wine. Whether that is a result of excessive heat stress in the vineyard or decisions made in the field and the cellar, is hard to say. I thought élevage would bring the wine together. Instead, time has only accentuated the awareness present in the en primeur sample. I…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

I was quite critical of the 2019 L’Évangile when I tasted it as a barrel sample, and of course the winemaking team has changed since this was made. The 2019 has a very floral bouquet of ripe dark berry fruit infused with violet and peony notes. The 15.3° alcohol has slightly blurred the edges since…