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Penfolds Collection 2023 (Jul 2023)

This 2021 Bin 389 is a reserved claret style made up of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Shiraz from across South Australia. It is pretty embryonic and only hints at what is in store over the medium to long term. There is impressive complexity to start: cassis, slate, cola, gravel, spice box and baked earth…

The Rambunctious Catalan Mediterranean and Beyond (Sep 2024)

Aged for 18 months in 61% new oak barrels and foudres (plus 4% in stainless steel tanks), the 2018 Mas La Plana is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Penedès. It displays a garnet hue with a purple sheen. The reductive bouquet offers red fruit notes of cherry and sour cherry, along with ash undergrowth and mushroom….

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Full red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of small red berries and exotic, pungent baking spices. Wonderful sappy sweetness and intensity but quite dense and closed in on itself. Superb natural acids brighten and carry the fruit through to a very long, very subtle finish. Tannins are thoroughly buffered by flesh. The ’96 will ultimately surpass this bottle,…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Ruby-red. Complex but subdued nose combines raspberry, game, tobacco and roasted, nutty oak. Fat, sweet and full, but doesn’t yet come alive in the middle palate. Ripe and broad but not yet expressive. Finishes with dusty tannins.

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru displays a little more depth and complexity than the Les Preuses. Touches of yellow plum, orange blossom, flint and light white tea scents percolate through with aeration. The palate is very intense on the entry and a bit richer than the Les Preuses. The harmonious, intense, well-defined finish…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Chambolle-Musigny is a pretty, accessible wine, but today I get the impression the 2011 may be headed for a period of dormancy. The relaxed, easygoing personality of the vintage is in evidence, but the fruit isn’t as generous or resonant as it was a years ago. I have seen the villages blossom with…