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Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1983 La Mission Haut-Brion is a very solid follow-up to the 1982, albeit not quite in the same class. It has a seductive bouquet of brambly black fruit, Earl Grey and sous-bois and fern-like scents that unfold with aeration. As always with this wine, it shows fine delineation. The vigorous palate is well-defined, offering…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

This last flight is mesmerizing. The 1990 Cristal is a rich, exotic beauty. Apricot, tangerine oil, spice and baked pastry are all signatures of a mature Champagne. Even so, the 1990 is fresh, vibrant and full of life. Its volume and resonance make it impossible to resist a second taste, and then a third. The…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Dark purple. Blackberry, kirsch and violet on the nose, with smoky minerals and cracked pepper gaining strength with air. Juicy dark berry flavors smoothly combine depth and vivacity, with zesty minerality carrying into the finish. Finishes sweet and very long, with resonating spiciness and florality.