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Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Clos de Tart was one of the better wines from Sylvain Pitiot’s era. It has evolved a little since my last tasting in 2018. The broody black fruit on the nose still oddly harks toward Bordeaux. It’s not as tight-fisted as before. The palate is structured with a lot of substance; what it…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright medium red. Knockout high-pitched aromas of red berries, peony and orange peel. Boasts compelling subtle density and sharp definition to its taut flavors of blackberry, violet, licorice, spices and minerals. In its juicy sappiness, this is like chewing on a ripe cherry. A classic Bonnes-Mares, offering superb volume without any undue weight. And an…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Deep red, a bit less saturated than the Clos Vougeot. Sappy dark fruits, flowers and spices on the nose, complemented by an exotic suggestion of white peach. Suave and supple, seemingly more open-knit and easier to taste today than the Clos Vougeot, with exotic floral lift adding to its early appeal. As sappy as this…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru presents aromas of coffee granules, dark chocolate and leather, also suggesting some Brettanomyces on the nose that obscures the terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with low acidity. The Brettanomyces re-emerges here, denuding it of the clarity one would hope for. I am unsure about the long-term evolution of…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Medium ruby. Sappy aromas of crystallized black and blue fruits, black pepper and black olive; this struck me as smelling like a great Cornas. Higher-pitched than the ’99, with a stronger impression of acidity but no hard edges. Less animal than the ’99; finishes firm, peppery and quite persistent. Jamet says this showed a more…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1995 Lafon-Rochet is quite backward on the nose with rather sultry black fruit, sous-bois and light cigar box scents. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins and earthy black fruit tones, but there is a slight shortfall in freshness and the finish is beginning to show some austerity. Tasted at La Trompette at…