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Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2009)

Dark ruby. Currant, minerals, dark chocolate, tobacco, loam, smoke, roast coffee and spicebox scents on the complex nose. Lush, concentrated and broad, with a seamless texture and a captivating restrained sweetness. A wine with serious stuffing, and a step up in intensity and suavity from the Ranch bottling. Finishes very long, with slowly mounting flavors…

Picture This: Domaine Henri Gouges 1945 – 2016 (Oct 2018)

The 2011 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has a potent leafy bouquet, an incongruous old sock malodorous tincture that rather puts me off! Fortunately that dissipates with time, developing preferable tobacco and sous-bois notes. I would just like more fruit. The palate has supple tannin on the entry. There is more flesh than the…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Moderately saturated medium red. Tight, pure nose offers restrained scents of cherry, flowers and peppery spices. Then sweet but taut in the mouth; impressively concentrated owing to the very low yield here but quite closed and hard to taste today. Perfumed and powerful wine but ungiving, and showing less sweetness than the Vaucrains. I’d hold…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of cassis, tar and bitter chocolate. Juicy, intense and tightly wound, with pronounced acidity. A rather extractive style, but the firm, late-arriving tannins are not dry, and there’s good lingering fruit.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is matured with 50% new oak and 100% whole bunch, the pruning having changed from cordon to Guyot simple in 2018. It has a lovely bouquet of orange-peel- and marmalade-infused red berry fruit, fine mineralité and wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champonnet 1er Cru comes from around 55-60 years old vines, matures in 30% new oak and 70% whole bunches. This has a ripe and refined bouquet with hints of blue fruit developing in the glass, very floral in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. This feels linear and…