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2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Ripe stone fruits, brown spices and smoky oak on the nose, complicated by a leesy quality. Round, broad and sweet; lower-pitched than the Luchets, showing a very ripe pineapple element and a bit of warmth. This plump, full wine will be best for relatively early consumption.

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

(bottled in March of 2008) Soft citrus fruits and toast lifted by crushed stone on the nose. Fat and fruity but less showy than the Tillets. This is densely packed and rather serious wine, offering a glyceral texture but showing less of the vintage’s exotic side. Finishes with lovely length. I’d give this a year…

Desert Island Dinner: 1961 Pomerol in Excelsis (Jun 2024)

The 1962 Yquem is similar to the previous bottle that I tasted a few months earlier. It has a slightly deeper hue, though, closed at first and then opening with mandarin, melted wax and tangerine mixed with rose water, again, quite Barsac-like in character. The palate is finely poised and elegant, with ginger and marmalade…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Poesia has another well-defined bouquet with blackberry, tobacco and light forest floor scents, very refined. The palate is medium-bodied with dry, grainy tannins and moderate weight. It is pliant toward the finish with a fine bead of acidity, fanning out with a sense of confidence that bodes well for the future. Tasted blind…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Poesia is superb, just as it was from barrel. Black cherry, plum, spice, new leather, licorice, cedar and mocha infuse this broad, ample Saint-Émilion with remarkable complexity. This is an especially dense, full-throttle Saint-Émilion, but it all works so well.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Moderately saturated medium red. Knockout ineffable nose combines all the major Barolo food groups: strawberry, truffle, musky underbrush, dried flowers, licorice, tar. Enters the mouth like silk, then shows outstanding depth, suavity and balance in the middle palate. The 2000 may be more every bit as powerful but this is finer and younger. The very…