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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2006 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 90% new oak, has quite a captivating, very attractive bouquet, a mélange of red and black fruit, peony, crushed rocks and blood orange – one of my favourite aromatics on the Left Bank in this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity, quite linear and…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Deep, vibrant aromas of currant, sour cherry, graphite, cedar and licorice. Sappy, suave and energetic, with terrific verve and framing acidity to the tightly wound flavors of dark cherry, currant, spices and minerals. Wonderfully primary and penetrating Saint-Julien, almost painfully intense yet weightless. Finishes very long and fine, with terrific definition. An infant…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria is tightly wound on the nose with lifted blackberry, bilberry, brine and crushed stone aromas – very nicely focused with real vigour and vibrancy. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain but assertive tannin that frame the layers of toasty black fruit laced with brown spices and white pepper. There is real…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 61% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 6% petit verdot; 13.6 % alcohol; pH 3.72; 78 IPT; 40% new oak) Bright red. Charming, fruity aromas of strawberry, raspberry and clove. Then surprisingly firm on entry, with stiff tannins providing backbone to the ripe red fruit and herbal flavors. The persistent…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria has a well defined, classic Saint-Julien bouquet with blackberry, forest floor, cedar and hints of mint coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. Not unlike Branaire-Ducru in style but with just a little more heft towards the grippy finish. This is a Gloria that I would broach over…

Soldera Redux: 1981-2006 (Oct 2016)

A regal, towering wine, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva epitomizes what makes Gianfranco Soldera’s wines so magical. Intense, soaring aromatics, sweet fruit and the silkiest of tannins are some of many signatures. Bright red cherry, white pepper and blood orange develop in the glass, adding considerable nuance. Above all else, the 2004 is a…