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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Vivid ruby. A highly perfumed, complex bouquet displays smoke-accented cherry and black currant liqueur, vanilla, pipe tobacco and incense qualities, along with exotic spice and mineral overtones. Sweet and deeply concentrated, offering expansive dark fruit, floral pastille, chewing tobacco and spicecake flavors that become livelier and pick up a hint of cola with aeration. Seamless,…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Vivid ruby. A highly perfumed, complex bouquet displays smoke-accented cherry and black currant liqueur, vanilla, pipe tobacco and incense qualities, along with exotic spice and mineral overtones. Sweet and deeply concentrated, offering expansive dark fruit, floral pastille, chewing tobacco and spicecake flavors that become livelier and pick up a hint of cola with aeration. Seamless,…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a perfumed nose, perhaps a little worked in the winery, but the fruit is pure and the new oak nicely integrated. Opulent, yet controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with a little hardness to the tannins, quite a worked mixture of red and black fruit that segues into…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of blueberry, cassis and iodine aromas, almost Chambolle-like in style. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Citrus-fresh with orange peel and marmalade notes toward the persistent finish. Excellent.