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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(bottled two days before I tasted it): Bright yellow. Musky lemon and grapefruit aromas seem virtually unaffected by the bottling. Wonderfully fine-grained and intense, offering great finesse and lift to the perfumed citrus and white peach flavors. This classically dry, strongly citrussy wine leaves behind a palate-staining perfume. A great vintage for this bottling, which…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright yellow. Reticent nose smells softer than the Batard, offering scents of ripe stone fruits, grilled almond, ginger, smoke and musky white flowers. Big and plush in the mouth, conveying a considerably sweeter impression than the Batard. This wonderfully silky, seamless wine mounts in volume on the back half, finishing very ripe but dry, with…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Deep red-ruby. Expressive aromas of musky black cherry, cassis and bitter chocolate. Plush, pliant, round and sweet, with smoky blueberry, mineral and bitter chocolate flavors complicated by tar and licorice. Finishes long, with very suave tannins. This seems almost drinkable now but has the concentration and structure to reward aging.

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn’t quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine’s slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pavillon Rouge has a delightful, elegant bouquet with wild strawberry, blackberry and cedar aromas, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, veins of blue fruit emerging with time in the glass and with just a touch of salted liquorice towards the finish. This could be à point. Tasted…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep red. Rather wild aromas of spicy cassis, scorched earth, minerals and truffle, plus a resiny nuance. Broad, lush and powerful for a second wine, with creamy dark berry, graphite and underbrush flavors of noteworthy intensity. I find more porcini than fresh fruit here, and the tannins are still youthfully chewy, but this is…