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2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Inky ruby. Potent, intensely perfumed aromas on raspberry liqueur, cherry-cola, anise and smoky garrigue. Spicy and incisive, offering palate-staining red and dark berry flavors that become richer with air. Shows a superb balance of richness and vivacity, with dusty tannins giving grip to a long, spice- and floral-dominated finish. One of the top wines from…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome (Jun 2023)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a serious wine. I vividly remember tasting this red for the first time at the winery shortly after release. Like it did back then, it leaves quite an impression today. The 2010 unwinds in the glass with gorgeous cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, dried lavender, tobacco, cured meat, leather and exotic spice…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Medium palish red; less saturated than the 2007. Less fruity and floral and more earthy/spicy on the nose than the ’07; exuded notes of red berry liqueur and underbrush with air. Then tighter and more penetrating in the mouth, conveying more force than the ’07 and a much more austere texture. Seems large but at…

New Releases from Piedmont (Dec 2010)

Mascarello’s 2006 Barolo Monprivato is incredibly primary at this stage. The 2006 is an explosive, muscular Monprivato endowed with layers of seamless fruit backed up by firm, muscular tannins. As is often the case, I expect the 2006 to go through a period of stubbornness, but it should begin to show well at around age…

White Truffles, Barolo & Barbaresco (Nov 2014)

Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Barolo Monprivato is a much more lifted and translucent wine than the 2006 Le Vigne. A wine that needs considerable air, the 2008 only starts to blossom with a few hours in the glass. Monprivato is often quirky, but the 2008 is a real moving target. Just this week alone I have…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good medium red. Ineffable soil-driven aromas of strawberry, dried flowers, rust, mocha and pungent minerality. Juicy and highly complex, offering saline, savory flavors of strawberry, minerals and underbrush. This is about white soil perfume and subtlety, not weight but there’s terrific intensity nevertheless. Finishes suave and vibrant, with uncanny subtle length. Built for a long…