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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating, highly perfumed aromas of sappy dark berries, violet and minerals; seems less oaky today than the ’01. Offers compelling mouthfilling concentration and perfume. A wine of great power and consistency, with a pungent minerality lingering on the palate-staining finish. This somehow doesn’t flag or grow narrower even after one swallows or spits….

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2000 Château Margaux remains one of the standouts of the millennial year. This bottle is consistent with the previous example. It’s deep in color. The aromatics are intense and backward, opening with blackberry, crushed violet and pencil box scents with time, but there remains a sense of beguiling aloofness, as if you are so…

Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)

The 2003 Lagrange was an early vintage picked from 11 to 24 September, the second earlier ever. For a 2003 it has an attractive bouquet with red cherry, cranberry, fig confit and dates, perhaps lacking typicity but there is nothing overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and rounded with light spicy notes,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Currant, leather and tobacco on the nose. Sweet, dense and thick, with considerable power for Lagrange. Ripe note of dark chocolate. I would have scored this higher but for a slight dry spot in the middle palate that carried through on the aftertaste. My bottle may not have been representative.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lagrange is similar to the previous bottles at the vertical. The nose shows desiccated red fruit, fig and dusty bureau. It’s just missing a little presence and vitality now at 20 years of age. The palate is medium-bodied with a savory entry, quite leathery (though there are no Brettanomyces). It’s nicely balanced, although…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good deep ruby-red. Captivating nose combines blackberry, menthol, licorice, bitter chocolate, violet and a flinty, iron-like element. Densely packed and very fresh, with superb energy and definition to the complex flavors of cassis, blackberry, licorice, menthol and minerals. A floral element contributes to the impression of vibrancy. This is more impressive than it was at…