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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Clarence de Haut-Brion has a refined and elegant bouquet with pure red fruit, undergrowth, clove and leather, perhaps just a little brettanomyces becoming more obvious with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, rounded in texture with truffle and leather infused red fruit. There is fine grip on the finish and it…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby-red. Blackcurrant, cedar and minerals on the forward nose. Fresh, sweet and smooth on entry, then slightly austere in the middle, with rich black fruit and herb flavors joined by an emerging hint of underbrush. The finish is chewy and moderately persistent. Though Le Clarence has lately been a rather austere wine when young,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 46% merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14% alcohol; pH 3.88; 77 IPT) Dark ruby-red. Reticent, brooding nose hints at red cherry, blackcurrant, violet, minerals and cedar. Extremely fine-grained and smooth, with harmonious acidity giving laser-like precision to the red fruit and mineral flavors. Completely devoid of…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

61% merlot and 39% cabernet franc): Good full ruby. Crystallized blackcurrant, licorice, cedar and menthol on the nose, complicated by cocoa and smoky minerals. Round and ripe but not thick or heavy on the palate, featuring tangy flavors of black cherry, licorice, graphite and spices. At once creamy and juicy, with good breadth and fine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that has never quite rocked my boat, and at 20 years of age, it still doesn’t. The bouquet feels a little simple and quite high-toned for Cheval Blanc, driven by the Merlot and trying too hard to impress. The palate is medium-bodied with robust tannin and sweet candied…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full ruby-red. Aromas of currant, bitter chocolate, violet, lead pencil and tobacco leaf; less black and more red than the 2000 and 2001. Fat, sweet and full, with smoke and currant flavors. Long on personality but it’s hard to imagine this wine ever showing as much complexity as either of the subsequent two vintages. Finishes…