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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright dark ruby. Knockout perfumed nose of great purity: cassis, violet, minerals and bitter chocolate. A penetrating wine of outstanding vinosity and verve; offers great tensile strength. Youthfully tight, classic claret whose extremely long finish features very fine tannins. I’m not convinced Ducru has made a wine in recent vintages to equal its ’95 and…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

(this has been in a stainless steel tank since September) Bright saturated ruby. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, pepper and spices, with a hint of exotic fruits. Silky and seamless but also primary and precise, with a great lightness of touch. Utterly spherical wine, like Romanee-Conti to the basic bottling’s La Tache. Wonderfully subtle and…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is very possibly the wine of the vintage. Vertical and explosive, the 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and dynamic energy to burn. The 2021 is a heady, racy wine that captivates all the senses. Tobacco, mocha, cedar, leather, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and plum saturate the palate in a wine that…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was one of the best wines of the vintage when I tasted from barrel. This contains 49% whole-bunch (a slightly higher figure than Guillaume Pouthier gave me during en primeur). The barrel-aging has what Pouthier called a “white toasting”, very light, so that you don’t smell the oak (70% new)….