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Nebbiolo in Its Many Guises: Alto Piemonte & Valtellina (apr 2020)

Deceptively medium in body, the 2015 Gattinara packs a real punch. Then again, the estate did not bottle their single vineyard Gattinaras in this vintage. Powerful and deep in the glass, the 2015 is supported by its depth and a core of big tannins that need at least a few years to settle down.

Vinous Table: Divino Enoteca, Edinburgh, Scotland (Sep 2021)

For the red, the 2015 Gattinara from Nervi-Conterno did the trick. Again, this surpassed my expectations. The aromatics are fulsome and generous, with red cherries, strawberry and a splash of soy. The palate is more malleable than I thought, fleshy on the midpalate with an almost Pinot-like finish. Does it need longer in bottle? Not…

Northern Italy: Alto Adige, Friuli, Veneto (Feb 2011)

Romano Dal Forno’s 2006 Valpolicella Superiore is dark, rich and powerful. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame black cherries, mocha, licorice and spices in this deep, broad-shouldered wine. The 2006 boasts tons of depth and richness in a sophisticated, sleek style. I was quite surprised to see the 2006 drink well with just a few hours…

Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

There is an unbelievable amount of vibrant, unbridled energy in the 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi. Zesty black cherry, sage, brown spice, cacao and white smoke can all be found here. It’s textural yet juicy in character, mixing savory and sweet with its display of ripe red and black fruits. Long…

The Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2009)

The 2006 Merlot Buri is a massive strapping wine imbued with truffles, melted road tar, blackberries, herbs and minerals. An authoritative, muscular wine, the Buri appears to be headed straight for a period of prolonged dormancy, but when it awakens it will be majestic. All three bottles I have tasted so far have been nothing…

Friuli – Parallel Universes (Dec 2013)

Graphite, smoke, melted road tar, grilled herbs, licorice and blackberries all explode from the glass in the 2009 Merlot Buri. A powerful, structured wine, the 2009 is going to need at least a few years to fully come together, but it is striking even today. The vivid, kaleidoscopic finish is full of Buttrio minerals, crushed…