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California’s North Coast (May 2014)

Bright medium ruby. Black raspberry, mocha, coffee and wet stone on the nose, with a hint of almost candied ripeness. Plush and voluminous without coming across as heavy; the mid-palate offers compelling building sweetness without quite the definition or nobility of the 2010. But then this very ripe wine, racked just once when the blend…

Australia Rediscovers Its Mojo (Mar 2016)

Bright purple. Heady, complex bouquet of ripe dark berries, cherry liqueur, cola and sandalwood, with smoky mineral and five-spice powder accents building in the glass. Seamless and deeply concentrated, offering surprisingly lithe black and blue fruit flavors that pick up spiciness and sweetness with air. At once brawny and elegant, this Shiraz finishes very long…

Argentina: The Cool Years (Mar 2016)

(these vines on shallow limestone soil are protected from the worst of the afternoon sun; there’s huge organic material in the soil by Argentine standards, notes Alejandro Vigil): Bright saturated ruby to the rim. Crushed blackberry and smoky, saline soil tones on the nose. Utterly imploded on the palate, with penetrating acidity and saline minerality…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Brilliant purple. Highly expressive black and blue fruit scents are complemented by building floral pastille, exotic spice and smoky mineral flourishes. Sweet and penetrating in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that become more lively on the back half. Shows outstanding clarity and minerally cut on the strikingly long finish,…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru sports an intense nose of mulberry, dark plum, sous-bois , fern and incense. This is complex and involving, and quite mercurial in the glass. Returning to the wine after 15 minutes, it develops a subtle minty aroma. The palate is velvety-smooth with enormous depth. A little more lush than its…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage. Vertical and aristocratic in bearing, Cheval is just stunning. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume to play off a core of rich dark fruit, gravel, spice, menthol and dried flowers. I also tasted the final three blending components,…