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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Montlandrie is one of the more showy wines from the Durantou’s this vintage. It is quite plush and sensual with scents of crème de cassis, crushed violet and a hint of star anis. Nicely defined, though their Lalande-de-Pomerols demonstrate a little more class. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy and generous,…

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Ruby-red. Powerful, brooding blackberry and creme de cassis aromas are further deepened by suggestions of dark chocolate, espresso and tar. Huge, mouthfilling and sweet, with an amazingly dense texture and superconcentrated kirsch and blackcurrant flavors complemented by baking spices and smoked meat. The impressively long finish shows great depth and powerful tannic spine. Hands off…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Dee p, saturated ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, gunflint, iron, licorice and brown spices. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, with wild flavors of blackberry, black cherry, roast coffee, licorice and gunflint. Extremely dense and concentrated, finishing with great aromatic persistence.

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky ruby. Heady, seductively perfumed aromas of dark berry liqueur, candied flowers, smoky minerals and olive paste. Sweet, palate-staining blackberry and violet pastille flavors are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity and a hint of white pepper. Very rich but lively as well, finishing with strong back-end cut. Shows real power on the strikingly long…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Opaque ruby. Dark berries, cherry-cola, licorice and Indian spices on the pungent nose. Deeply pitched blackberry and floral and licorice pastille flavors brighten with air and show an intense spicy quality, along with a touch of mocha. Clings tenaciously on the finish, which strongly repeats the cherry and licorice notes. In a more brooding style…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 58/42 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.9% alcohol) Ruby red. Perfumed aromas of currant, spices and flowers show an intriguing candied quality. Light and lively on the palate, with suave, peppery dark berry and mineral flavors lifted by a spicy element on the back. Finishes long and pure, with noteworthy inner-mouth energy and…