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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1996 Léoville Poyferré is an inconsistent performer, and this ex-château magnum does nothing to allay my fears that it is a rare instance of now-retired proprietor Didier Cuvelier fumbling what on paper is a great Left Bank vintage. Given that the Cabernet Sauvignon had plenty of time to ripen after the September rains, it…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Expressive aromas of plum, currant, game, woodsmoke and tobacco. Denser and sweeter than the ’97 or ’98; structured but pliant. Finishes quite long, with dusty, very fine tannins nicely buffered by fruit.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is powerful, dense and explosive right out of the gate. I often find Romanée-Conti to be an elusive wine, a Burgundy that does not reveal everything right away. That may turn out to be the case here as well, but at the same time there is no denying the wine’s…

Better Than Water: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2019 in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on 17 of September at 22.5hL/ha. I left my glass for five minutes before the first sip since it does not like to give everything away at first pouring. Firstly, it is a little deeper in colour than other recent vintages. Waiting for the wine to open pays…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around three-quarters whole bunch fruit and is matured in one-third new oak. Despite the small reduction on the nose, there is clearly impressive intensity in this Grand Cru, but it is more backward and more broody than the 2018 tasted from barrel 12 months earlier. With time, there are…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Sappy, expressive aromas of cherry, plum, minerals, woodsmoke and game, plus an exotic suggestion of baked apple. Rather subtle on the attack, then quickly expands to fill the mouth. A big, deep, very rich vintage for Lafite, unusually generous at this early stage and extremely long on the aftertaste. But went into a…