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Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today….

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Good pale yellow. Penetrating aromas of citrus peel, spices, metallic minerality and crushed rock. Tightly wound, gripping and deep, with outstanding concentration and clarity and a density of texture that reminded me of the 2005 here. A flavor of candied lime peel is already quite exhilarating but this wine’s youthfully imploded character calls for at…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

A wine of pure and ample breadth, the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne has really shut down over the last few months. Pear, almond and white peach notes emerge, but only with great reluctance. Today it is the wine’s intense minerality and salinity that dominate. The 2010 is a big wine. Accordingly it will require a measure of…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Angélus has a calm, cool and collected bouquet of tightly wound black fruit that unfurls with aeration to reveal blackberry, gravel and pencil box notes; classic, almost Left Bank in style, and delivered with real panache. The palate is exquisitely balanced with fine but grippy tannin, layers of black and red fruit tinged…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Readers will have to be very patient with the 2015 Angélus. Massively tannic and forbidding, Angélus is one of the most reticent, unyielding 2015s I tasted. The high percentage of Cabernet Franc, the approach to extraction, aging in the cellar – which involves minimal racking and low S02 – and slightly late bottling are some…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Cristal is a wine of pure and total sensuality. There are no hard edges or angular contours. Instead, the solar energy of the year is front and center. Even with all that intensity, the 2009 is impeccably balanced from start to finish. The 2009 is one of the most forward, sensual Cristals in…