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Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked 30 August and 2 and 3 September at 29.7hL/ha. This has to be left for 5-10 minutes to unfurl. Complex nose, pressed flowers (peony and iris), hints of Lapsang Souchong and briary, this La Tâche has a cerebral nature that sets it apart. The palate is medium-bodied…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru had not been racked and so I was able to taste this from barrel, unlike the Romanée-Conti. It has haunting precision on the nose, introverted at first, dark berry fruit like the Grands-Echézeaux but with more complexity. The palate is very pure with a granular texture on the entry,…

The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle (Feb 2019)

The 2016 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 24–25 at 31hL/ha (the highest of the five crus). It has an utterly sublime bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed limestone, a dash of cracked black pepper and a little oregano. This is extremely complex and displays exquisite focus, to the extent that you could just…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated bright, dark red-ruby. Very dark, reserved scents of blackberry, violet, licorice and spices; rather brooding and cool for an infant La Tâche. Boasts extraordinary concentration but this is very tightly wound today and showing less early flesh than the Richebourg. Like an essence of a wine, but distinctly vertical in the early going. The…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1995 Climens has a lilting bouquet with lovely scents of wild honey, orange pith and white peach, a hint of saffron emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with good vigour, peach and apricot with a superb spine of acidity, building in weight towards quite a spicy, tangerine-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth….

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Troplong Mondot is composed and beautifully-focused on the nose, well-defined with vivacious brambly red fruit suffused with minerals and black truffle shavings. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, finely proportioned, fresh yet without huge weight at the back end. This gives it a degree of elegance that is admirable. Charming and…