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Focus on California (May 2003)

(previously labelled as the Calistoga Cuvee) Bright ruby-red. Aromas of black- and redcurrant, licorice, menthol and loam, with a floral nuance. Supple and fairly bright but rather subdued today. Finishes with a minty nuance; tannins are fine but a tad dry.

Albion Gets Serious: English Sparkling Wine (Jul 2020)

The 2016 Rosé from Gusbourne has a slightly deeper salmon/bronze hue than I was expecting, but with a fine mousse. The bouquet does not mess about, delivering strawberry and light peachy aromas. Not amazingly tense, but clean, and if you like your rosé fruity instead of steely, then you will be pleased. The palate is…

Vinous Table: The Parson’s Table, Arundel, UK (May 2022)

The 2018 Brut Reserve from Gusbourne in Kent provides more evidence, not that it is really necessary anymore, that English sparkling wine is really delivering. A tripartite blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier aged for 36 months on the lees, it offers enticing orange blossom, Nashi pear and hints of crème fraiche on…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Palladius is matured in a mixture of concrete and clay. It gradually unfurls with brioche, praline and honeysuckle aromas, wonderfully focused and precise. The well-balanced palate delivers orange zest and tangerine on the entry. The acidity is very well judged and there is real brightness and tension toward the finish. Is it the…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2018 Palladius is a blend of 12 grape varieties, whole-cluster-pressed and matured in clay and concrete amphorae. Only Eben Sadie can take a gallimaufry of grape varieties and create a wine of this caliber. It has a clean, pure bouquet of wax resin, pine needles, greengage plum and light chamomile scents that gain intensity…

Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

There’s a sense of ease to this ripe yet elegant Pinot. It has a fluidity as it flows along the palate, offering cherry, raspberry and floral aromas. A portion of whole cluster fruit has created additional layers of woody herbs and spice. There’s almost 30% new oak, but the fruit, sourced from four vineyards, absorbs…