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The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Fruit-driven aromas of red cherry and strawberry. The silkiest and thickest of these 2014s to this point but with plenty of energy and cut. Boasts a sexy stem component and finishes juicy and persistent, with plenty of ripe tannins. Charles Lachaux told me that he uses the whole-cluster…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Tasted from magnum, the 2008 Brut Grand Vintage is broad and ample on the palate, with terrific volume that emerges with time in the glass. Lemon peel, pastry and white flowers give the 2008 brightness, but what I like most here is a very distinctive sense of verticality that gives the wine the spine to…

Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)

The 1995 Hermitage, on the other hand, is totally sublime. Rose petal, black pepper, dried flowers and sage are some of the many Syrah-inflected aromas that blossom in the glass in a perfumed, sensual wine that captivates all of the senses. With just six people at the table, there is plenty of wine to go…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Ruby-red, a bit less saturated than the ’96. More sauvage aromas of black fruits, game, gunflint, licorice, smoke, spice, roast coffee, mint and pepper; subtle and very complex. Wonderful sweetness and purity in the mouth, but a wine of terrific cut and grip. Finishes with substantial chewy tannins that will require extended bottle aging. But…

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Bright purple. Heady red and dark berry preserve and floral aromas, with bright spice and mineral nuances adding vivacity. Concentrated but impressively energetic, offering sappy black raspberry and blueberry flavors that are firmed by zesty minerality. Smoothly plays richness off finesse, finishing on a resonating note of candied flowers.

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Medium ruby. Dense, powerful, imploded aromas of blackberry, creme de cassis, coffee liqueur, pipe tobacco and smoked meat. The texture of this wine is impossibly lush and velvety, and the superconcentrated, sweet essence-of-dark-berry flavors are also incredibly lively. Wonderfully sweet, lush and endless on the finish. You’d need a squeegee to remove this from your…