Archives: Product Reviews

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2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Saturated ruby. Aromas of black fruits, gunflint, earth and minerals show a jammy, port-like ripeness. Fat, lush and broad but not yet filled in. As superripe and sweet as this is today in the middle palate, it turns distinctly austere and stony on the back end, showing its granitic origin. Finishes with extremely fine-grained tannins…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Bright ruby. Lovely perfumed aromas of fresh red cherry, blackcurrant and violet. Enters full, rich and very suave, showing highly flattering flavors of chocolatey red cherry and red plum along with very good energy, and yet I found myself wanting a bit more precision and lift. There is a wonderfully sumptuous, sensual side to this…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pontet-Canet needs more encouragement from the glass than its peers, but it rewards the imbiber with seductive pure cassis and blackberry fruit, touches of autumn leaves and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, a lovely bead of acidity. A harmonious, brown spice and smoke tinged finish fans out…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, full ruby. Pure, vibrant aromas of cassis, blackberry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and leather. Like liquid velvet on entry, then energetic and sharply delineated in the mid-palate, with penetrating minerality intensifying the pristine dark berry flavors. Most impressive today on the extremely long, perfumed finish, which shows suave, noble tannins and a magically light touch…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

Taittinger’s 1996 Comtes de Champagne is another highlight. The flavors are only now beginning to show elements of complexity, a great sign for aging. Gently spiced and buttery notes suggest the 1996 is about to enter the early part of its maturity, where it is likely to stay for another decade or so.

Vinous Table: Bar Le Côte, Los Olivos, CA (Sep 2022)

Vinous readers are well aware of how much I like Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne. The 1996 is in a perfect place right now, where it has mellowed nicely in middle age, while retaining plenty of energy. I am not sure it is going to improve meaningfully however, so I would be thinking about drinking any…