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2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

Deep, brooding aromas of apricot, minerals, menthol and clove, with a suggestion of superripeness and outstanding complexity. Superconcentrated, sweet and powerful, with harmonious ripe acidity buffering the wine’s alcohol and extending its finish. This really saturates the palate with flavor.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Game, leather, currants and smoky oak on the nose. Supple, fairly dense fruit supported by sound acids. But with a bit less flesh and extract than the two subsequent vintages, the tannins give this wine a slightly more aggressive finish. Still needs a few months to recover from the bottling.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(4.6 g/l total acidity; 12.7% alcohol): Dark red with a hint of garnet. A floral element lifts the very ripe aromas of kirsch and spicecake. Smooth, juicy, balanced and clean, with flavors of raspberry jam, graphite and tar exhibiting very good sweetness. Lively, balanced acidity confers precision and cut to this easygoing midweight. Finishes linear…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red with an amber rim. Subdued aromas of plum, redcurrant, truffle and milk chocolate, plus a faint medicinal aspect. Solid and chunky, but with slightly sour acids limiting its appeal. I found the same slight tartness on the finish, which showed good but not outstanding length. This wine was the writers’ and collectors’ favorite…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

Unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage, the 2012 Vieux Château Certan is pure class. So many Pomerols speak to power in 2012, but VCC is all finesse. Forward and open-knit with that classic sense of translucent beauty that is the most identifiable attribute of VCC, the 2012 is simply magnificent. Veins of minerality…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Vieux Château Certan is relatively complex on the nose: red fruit, leather, balsam and lavender, well defined and nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a keen thread of acidity, harmonious and nimble yet with a filigree and detailed finish that beckons you back for another sip. This is one of…