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Vinous Event: Soldera Vertical in London (Oct 2016)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, on the other hand, might be the single most elegant wine ever made at the estate. Silky tannins, soaring aromatics and finely sculpted fruit elevate the 2004 into the realm of the truly sublime. It is another remarkable, moving wine.

Soldera Redux: 1981-2006 (Oct 2016)

A regal, towering wine, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva epitomizes what makes Gianfranco Soldera’s wines so magical. Intense, soaring aromatics, sweet fruit and the silkiest of tannins are some of many signatures. Bright red cherry, white pepper and blood orange develop in the glass, adding considerable nuance. Above all else, the 2004 is a…

New Releases from Piedmont (Oct 2008)

The 2004 Barolo Cerretta is the most complete and well-balanced of these wines. There is lovely density and richness to the wine’s texture, which showcases layers of dark fruit beautifully intertwined with elegant tannins. The wine possesses outstanding persistence on the palate and pretty balsamic nuances that linger on the finish. Today the wine comes…

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled three weeks prior to my visit): Bright yellow. Subdued aromas of white peach, pineapple and white flowers lifted by spicy clove oil. At once elegant and penetrating, showing superb depth and building energy to its bracing citrus-dominated flavors. Nothing exotic about this beauty. Really leaves the taste buds vibrating. A great showing for this…

2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)

(the highest in alcohol of these ’03s, at 13.4%; from 50-year-old vines) Sappy orange aroma. Sweet and tactile, with intense, layered fruit flavors of orange and tangerine sorbet. As creamy as this is, it also finishes with very good grip.