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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan blossoms beautifully in the glass, but only after having been opened for several hours. Crushed flowers, mint, sweet herbs, anise and spice make a strong first impression. The 2005 is a VCC that makes its case more on finesse than power. I appreciate the understated, classy style quite a bit….

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(80% merlot) Bright ruby-red. Very closed nose hints at licorice and nutty oak. Sweet and broad in the mouth, with a chocolatey ripeness but less energy and grip than the 2006. This is more mouthfilling, and more sexy today in the middle palate, but may ultimately be less complex. Or is it just more reserved…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

The first thing that is evident about the 2000 Brut Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill is its finesse and total silkiness. The 2000 is a rich, creamy and deeply expressive Winston Churchill. I don’t see the 2000 being an especially long-term ager, but it is wonderfully radiant and open today. Hints of pasty, spice, apricots and…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

Light yellow-gold. Spicy, intensely perfumed aromas of lemon curd, blood orange, anise and jasmine, with a toasty overtone. Supple and concentrated, with dried citrus and hazelnut flavors complemented by ginger and buttered toast. A long, subtly floral finish shows a hint of smoky minerality and impressive energy. This is drinking well now, but I suspect…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The 1999 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, from magnum, is wonderfully rich and expansive, proving yet again jut how well suited the big bottle is to Champagne. Smoke, peaches, mint and flowers are just some of the nuances that flow from this textured kaleidoscopic Champagne. The wine continues to gain focus and breadth through to…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

Pale yellow-gold. Deep, pungent nose offers an array of orchard and citrus fruit qualities, along with notes of iodine, minerals and toasty lees. Chewy and impressively concentrated, with excellent clarity to its pear and orange flavors. The toasty quality gains strength with air and carries through an impressively long, spicy, floral finish. Very impressive, especially…