Archives: Product Reviews

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Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

A rush of fruit and tannin explode across the palate in the 2014 Corton-Renardes. The most classically structured and overtly powerful of the Grand Crus, the Corton-Renardes will take a decade or so to come around, but it will always remain somewhat tense and piercing. Even so, the Corton-Renardes is simply magical in this vintage.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has the most cerebral nose of any Cathiard Premier Cru, scents of black fruit intermingling with ash, sous-bois and light iodine scents. It also seems the most mercurial in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, unerring symmetry and a killer sense of symmetry that is…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has the most cerebral nose of any Cathiard Premier Cru, scents of black fruit intermingling with ash, sous-bois and light iodine scents. It also seems the most mercurial in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, unerring symmetry and a killer sense of symmetry that is…

The Saar’s Deliciously Diverse 2017s (Oct 2019)

While this Auslese harbors marginally less acidity than its Spätlese counterpart, there is a blazingly bright, invigorating, almost severe sense of grapefruit, pineapple and lemon concentrates, along with piquancy of zests and seeds that engenders a near-indelible palate impression. The wine’s citricity is beautifully complemented by creamy-richness of texture as well as by flavors of…

The Saar’s Deliciously Diverse 2017s (Oct 2019)

While this Auslese harbors marginally less acidity than its Spätlese counterpart, there is a blazingly bright, invigorating, almost severe sense of grapefruit, pineapple and lemon concentrates, along with piquancy of zests and seeds that engenders a near-indelible palate impression. The wine’s citricity is beautifully complemented by creamy-richness of texture as well as by flavors of…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(I tasted this near the end of its malolactic fermentation): Pure but reticent aromas of yellow fruits and iodine. Sappy, savory and tight, displaying serious inner-mouth tensile strength. More about saline minerality and menthol than primary fruit in the early going but this potentially outstanding wine is still in an embryonic stage.