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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Corton-Grèves has a pleasant bouquet of wild strawberry, cranberry leaf and light sea cave aromas, all gradually unfurling in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and quite stocky for a Corton, offering chewy tannin and a grippy, slightly peppery finish with traces of tobacco lingering on the aftertaste. This will require three or…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Corton-Grèves Grand Cru was showing some reduction on the nose, although there appears to be fine compact red fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, and lightly spiced with white pepper and sage toward the finish, which shows a little more elegance compared to the Clos du Roi this year. Fine.

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn’t quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine’s slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than…

Piedmont Within Reach (Dec 2022)

The 2020 Gaia & Rey (Chardonnay) is a classy, super-elegant wine. Orchard fruit, tangerine oil, white flowers and a touch of spice all run through this silky, polished Chardonnay from Gaja. The 2020 comes across as a bit subdued, but if the past is any indication, it will blossom with a few years in bottle.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(13.6% alcohol; 40 h/h): Bright red. Very complex, deep nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf and flowers. Then smooth, rich and dense, with a creamy texture and lively acidity nicely extending the flavors of dark berries, plum, mocha, soy sauce, leather and Oriental spices. A ripely tannic wine with a rich, exotic…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle…