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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

One of the least expressive wines in this range, the 2012 Chambertin is quite closed today. Iron, dark/black fruit, spices and tobacco take shape in the glass, but ultimately it is the tannins and overall sense of structure that dominate. This large-scaled, broad 2012 is going to need quite a bit of time to fully…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Good deep red. Musky aromas of red fruits, mocha and earth. Sweet, saline and aromatic in the mouth, with rich, supple red fruit and soil flavors showing building intensity. The rising finish is rich and smooth but doesn’t show quite the class of the Chapelle.

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Inky ruby. Deep-pitched, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of black currant and cherry compote, violet and incense take on a hint of exotic spices with air. Lush and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, licorice and spicecake flavors that are sharpened by a smoky mineral element. Becomes sweeter and livelier with…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Medium-deep red. Less forthcoming but nuanced aromas of leather, pepper, black raspberry and brown spices. Fat but unforthcoming in the mouth; more closed than Rostaing’s ’96 Viaillère. The pepper and leather flavors are complicated by notes of licorice and fresh blood. Strong acidity. This may well merit a 90-point score with three of four years…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Lurid magenta. Spice-accented raspberry, cherry and candied flowers on the highly fragrant nose. Youthfully taut and energetic in the mouth, offering concentrated bitter cherry, red berry and spicecake flavors that turn sweeter on the back half. Chewy and focused on the youthfully tannic finish, which leaves behind sappy red berry and licorice notes.

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Saturated dark ruby. Nose like a fruit essence: blackberry and blueberry liqueur, licorice, pepper, Provencal herbs, and hints of more exotic fruits. A wine of extreme unctuousity, virtually too large for the mouth. Suggestion of marc, but with sappy fruits and great solid underlying structure. The tannins saturate the palate on the peppery finish. Very…