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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Good medium ruby-red. Sweet, pure nose dominated by black cherry and spices. Juicy and fine-grained, with a lovely restrained sweetness and nicely integrated acidity. A hint of pepper lifts the wine’s fruit without introducing intrusive greenness. Stylish, firm claret with good extract and a firm, lingering finish.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Léoville-Barton presents plenty of brambly red fruit on the nose, along with singed leather and mushroom; it’s just a little more animally than I expected. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and sappy, offering supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, and lightly spiced with white pepper and clove. Quite persistent in the…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Good red-ruby. Currant, plum and smoky oak on the nose. Fat, suave and smooth; not a powerful style but offers lovely depth of flavor. Finishes with rather smooth tannins and good length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Langoa Barton has lasted very well on the nose (better than the 1990). It displays complex, well-delineated aromas of black fruit, melted tar, cedar and touches of mint. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. This is very youthful for a 30-year-old Langoa, and very cohesive, offering tarry black fruit laced with black…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Ripe, expressive nose combines cassis, roasted plum and coconut. Supple, very concentrated and large-scaled; actually rather backward today even if the terrific ripeness is clear to see. Quintessential firm Pauillac backbone is covered by flesh. Will rely more on its tongue-dusting tannins than its acidity to age in bottle. This wine firmed up…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1994 Ducru-Beaucaillou came from a bottle in my possession for donkey’s years. It has a dry and quite austere nose, black fruits, still with that odd, peaty aroma. The palate is medium-bodied and still contains a bit of flesh, though it is quite simplistic on the finish, and at the end of the day,…