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What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2007 Suduiraut was cropped at 16hl/ha. It has a similar bouquet to the bottle I last encountered in 2016. It opens gradually with scents of dried honey, apricot blossom and a touch more melted wax than I recall. The palate is very well balanced with intense botrytised fruit, a fine line of acidity, perhaps…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

(90% semillon with 10% sauvignon blanc) Bright yellow-gold. Subdued but powerful nose offers fresh stone fruits, grapefruit zest, ginger and honey, all lifted by a floral topnote. Lush, thick and honeyed, but with superb acidity framing the flavors of mandarin orange, pineapple, honey and chalk. Finishes very long and subtle, with a saline nuance and…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

In so many vintages, Pavie-Macquin is a wine of total seduction. Not in 2011. Readers will find a powerful, tightly wound Saint-Émilion. Smoke, licorice, spice and dark fruit add to the wine's virile, imposing personality. I would prefer to cellar the 2011 for at least another few years, as it still needs time. Hot, dry…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavie-Macquin has a powerful nose with mulberry and red cherries, camphor and fennel emerging with time. Lacks finesse, but it is not unattractive. The palate is high-toned with sweet red cherry, cough candy and orange zest. Good substance on the finish, modern in style but well crafted. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright inky purple. Red cherry, dark berries, pepper, licorice and minerals on the almost Burgundian nose, lifted by a floral topnote. Lovely inner-mouth perfume and precision to the pure raspberry, dark cherry and crushed violet flavors. The long, bright, rising finish features spicy, smooth tannins and lingering floral perfume, but a pyrazine (bell pepper) note…

Focus on California (May 2001)

Full medium ruby. Aromas of plum, chocolate and tobacco leaf, plus a note of scotch from the wood. Dense and layered, with truffle and oak components and a suggestion of wet wood. I get ripe fruit here, but also a nagging green quality that dries the finish.