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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very deep ruby-red. Pungent, inky, nutty aromas of blackcurrants and minerals; very sexy oak treatment gives the nose a wonderful sweetness. Big, minerally, and shapely, with lovely purity of dark berry flavor. Has clarity and grip, but not quite the richness of the ’95. The tannins build in the glass, but are in harmony with…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Larcis Ducasse is one of the great surprises of this retrospective of nearly two hundred 2005s. A wine of shocking intensity, power and structure, the 2005 is still an infant. Inky dark fruit, gravel, lavender, leather and spice all hit the palate. In the glass, the 2005 is marvelously deep, rich and dark….

Saturday Morning: Larcis Ducasse 1945-2017 (Oct 2020)

The 2005 Larcis Ducasse is blessed with one of my favourite bouquets with redcurrant, cranberry, orange zest and rose petal aromas – really effervescent and engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, very harmonious and almost Burgundian with tobacco and cedar towards the structured and persistent finish. This is superb and it will give…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Ruby-red. Superripe, vibrant nose offers cherry, blueberry, blackberry, mocha and fruity dark chocolate. Rich and wonderfully fine-grained, with excellent acidity leavening the impression of superripeness and giving cut to the intense dark berry, plum and mineral flavors. Finishes very long and lush, with a fine dusting of tannins and noteworthy subtlety. With its 14.5% alcohol,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot; 13.35% alcohol; pH 3.85; 76 IPT; 40% selection) Deep ruby. A very classic nose of cassis, cedar and smoky graphite is devoid of animal and earthy scents and conveys a sense of refinement rare for this wine. Then very smooth in the mouth, with excellent palate…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose has calmed down since I last tasted it (when I described the bouquet as raucous). Now it is quite refined with blackberry, cedar and leather aromas, not the most powerful you will come across but very well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, not…