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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Exotic aromas of cassis, meat and smoke, plus a whiff of funky wood. Then remarkably sweet, lush and suave, with a flavor of raw berries. Pure Margaux silkiness allied to firm structure. Finishes very long, with rich, sweet tannins. Remarkable wine, particularly considering that the bottle was not perfect. Pristine bottles of this…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is a fantastic wine that heralded the true return of the First Growth. This bottle came directly from the château’s cellars. Incredible delineation and focus on the nose, this is just so pure and charming with black fruit, graphite, melted tar, cedar and pressed rose petals. It is close to perfection….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is consistently brilliant at the moment. This is the third bottle tasted in almost as many months. It has a vivacious bouquet with blackberry, tar and tobacco. It’s mineral-driven with a gorgeous wilted rose petal scent embroidered into the aromatic profile. The palate has an effortless quality all of its own,…

Cellar Favorite: 1991 Dominus (Nov 2022)

This 1991 Dominus was poured blind in Meursault and had me guessing Right Bank, perchance Cheval Blanc! Showing light signs of bricking on the rim, the bouquet unfurls gracefully with melted red fruit, cooked meat, ash and very subtle hints of hung game, all exquisitely defined. Mercurial in the glass, the aromatics seem to broaden…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Very saturated dark red-ruby. Youthful, supercomplex aromas of plum liqueur, currant, brown spices, leather and chocolate, plus an ineffable animal/vegetal/mineral element. Wonderful penetrating sweetness in the mouth; dense, thick, very intensely flavored and pungent. Sharply delineated. Perhaps not quite the sheer size of the ’94. Finishes extremely long and focused, with fine tannins and a…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Deep red-ruby. Knockout, Bordeaux-like aromas of cherry syrup, plum, chocolate, mocha and brown spices, plus a faint vegetal complexity. Sweet, smooth and ripe, if not quite as dense as the extraordinary ’91. Excellent acidity gives the flavors lovely clarity. Finishes firmly tannic and very long. Extremely suave wine.