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Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2015 Sassicaia is incredibly elegant, perfumed and light on its feet. It has become even more wonderfully refined since I last tasted it. Sweet floral and spiced notes lead into a core of sweet red and purplish berry fruit. When it was younger, the 2015 was quite potent. Today, my impression is that, while…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is wonderfully open, expressive and resonant. The richness of the vintage comes through nicely, yet the more overt elements are very nicely balanced by a good deal of freshness. Baked apple, pastry, candied lemon, dried flowers and warm, toasty notes shape the generous, resonant finish. With time in…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Dark violet. Powerful red and dark fruit preserve, pipe tobacco and potpourri aromas are complemented by exotic spice, mocha and incense flourishes. Sappy and energetic in character, offering palate-staining blackberry, cherry liqueur, floral pastille and spicecake flavors underscored by a vein of juicy acidity. Gently chewy tannins build steadily on an impressively long, focused and…

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Saturated red-ruby color. Brooding aromas of blackcurrant, licorice, gunflint and spices. Thick, dense and brooding, with sweet cassis, pepper and tobacco flavors framed and carried by firm acidity. Comes across as very ripe and broad, but this bottle at least does not show the porty character that some past vintages have displayed at the same…

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Ruby-red. Intense spice and floral notes lift the deep cassis, dark cherry and cured tobacco aromas. Wild, gamey and sweet, with deep flavors of blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, bitter licorice root and espresso framed by strong tannins. A solidly built if rather brooding La Chapelle that will require plenty of patience. Give this a decade…