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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Figeac continues to not put a toe, let alone a foot, wrong under head winemaker Frédéric Faye. The bottle is closed initially, and in fact it was only the following morning that it began to unfold and reveal its true character. Quintessential Figeac on the nose, it offers blackberry, briar, pencil shavings courtesy…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Bright ruby-red. Very spicy, floral nose shows a hint of torrefaction to the rich red cherry and red plum jam aromas. In the mouth, savory and sweet flavors of saline-accented red fruit and licorice are supported by an oaky undertone. Finishes clean and persistent. A very good showing for Batailley.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2013 Batailley has a very light, innocuous bouquet of black fruit infused with gravelly aromas. It feels a little frail, much more so than when I tasted it just after bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight green note on the entry. This does come across as underripe, and as such, I would…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Exotic aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cola, sandalwood, violet and smoky minerals. Lush, creamy dark berry compote flavors are enlivened by graphite and cracked pepper, with slow-building floral pastille and Indian spice notes. Tannins come up slowly on the broad, sweet, impressively persistent finish. You could drink this rich but energetic wine now but…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru is heavily reduced on the nose making it difficult to read. It opens with (very) rigorous shaking, revealing mainly red fruit entwined with iodine and violets. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy entry. A Grand Cru that welcomes you with open arms, quite lavish on the finish but everything…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru, whose illustrious pedigree did not preclude it from frost damage, nevertheless has a distinctive nose that seems anomalous to d’Angerville’s other crus: darker fruit, much more marine-influenced, to the point where you would imagine there might be stems (it is 100% de-stemmed like the other crus). The…