Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

(Lachaux purchased just over a half-hectare of 53-year-old vines from Christopher Newman) Good medium red. Nose offers dark cherry, smoky oak and complex soil tones. At once dense and energetic, conveying an impression of rather strong energy from the combination of firm acids and underlying minerality. In a cooler, almost peppery style, with the wine’s…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good healthy, deep red. Fresher on the nose than the Charmois but less expressive. Silky on entry, then sweet and smooth in the middle, with lively flavors of raspberry, currant, plum, minerals and smoke. This shows good life in the mouth and finishes with firm, fairly sweet tannins.

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Inky ruby. Deep-pitched, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of black currant and cherry compote, violet and incense take on a hint of exotic spices with air. Lush and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, licorice and spicecake flavors that are sharpened by a smoky mineral element. Becomes sweeter and livelier with…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1985 Cos d’Estournel is another vintage that I have not encountered for a number of years. It is mature with wide bricking on the rim. The nose is not profound or intellectual, but it is engaging and involving with scents of warm gravel, terracotta-like scents that marry perfectly with the melted red fruit. The…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Medium red. Some green notes and a suggestion of old oak dominate the nose. Initially showed a touch of sweetness and decent texture along with a repeating herbal element but lost some of its fruit with air. Between its slightly spiky acidity and soft tannins, this wine should be drunk up. (13.3% alcohol; October 6…

Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017 (Jul 2020)

The 2015 Meyney is an outstanding Saint Estèphe and here confirms its shock victory in the blind Southwold tasting. Intense dark cherries, blackberry and sage on the nose reveal just a hint of iron filings, all very cohesive and demonstrating well-integrated oak. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, good grip and plush red fruit laced…