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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2005 Yquem is limpid golden in hue. The bouquet is gorgeous, finely-tuned and precise with clear honey, vanilla pod and saffron, less of the almond that I have noticed previously. The palate is built around its exquisite poise, the acidity keeping this Yquem on its tip-toes. As I have noted before, it appears to…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Figeac is powerful and tightly wound. It does not possess the density or sheer sexiness of many Right Bank wines. Instead, the 2005 comes across as strict and severe. I am not sure the searing tannins will ever soften enough for the 2005 to be truly pleasurable. There is good brightness and plenty…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Figeac has been a variable performer over the years, one where you never quite know what to expect until you pull the corks. As usual, it has a sullen bouquet at first before offering broody black fruit laced with melted tar and tobacco, hints of liquorice almost reluctantly evolving with time. The palate…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full medium ruby. The nose offers blackcurrant, licorice, graphite, violet, minerals and exotic spices. Broad, suave and fine-grained on the palate, with fleshy but sharply focused flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco. Finishes classically dry and very long. This is St. Emilion with Pauillac and Graves qualities-and a superb vintage for this chateau, whose…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or…

Memories Tumble Out: Pichon Baron 1937-1990 (Aug 2022)

The 1990 Pichon Baron is a formidable wine, one that I have tasted innumerable times. This bottle, the only “youngster” served during a tasting of venerable bottles, demonstrates how Jean-Michel Cazes and Daniel Llose took it by the scruff of the neck and showed what this vineyard is capable of. Copious blackberry, cedar and mint…