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Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Opaque ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes spicy dark berries and potpourri, with zesty mineral and incense qualities adding complexity. Pliant boysenberry and candied lavender flavors are impressively fresh and focused, with a hint of licorice adding depth. Closes sweet, supple and broad, with resonating spiciness and gentle tannins that add shape and grip.

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Good ruby-red, considerably less saturated than the 2000. Sexy, sweet aromas of black plum, black raspberry and flowers; smells more like merlot, while the 2000 is more cabernet. Juicy and suave in the mouth, with subtle but intense flavors nicely firmed by juicy acids. Classy, impeccably balanced wine with very fine-grained tannins. While this is…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Lagrange is outclassed by its millennial counterpart, which is the opposite of their showings at the vertical two years earlier. Blackberry and cigar smoke feature on the nose, while the floral element is not quite as expressive here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, supple and cohesive, displaying just the right amount…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on August 28, the first to be harvested this year. It tends to produce very small berries, according to Leroux, which is no doubt why the nose is very intense, with citrus fruit, lemon curd and light patisserie scents. The well-balanced palate is slightly viscous on the entry….

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(Leroux owns this vineyard on the Chassagne side of the appellation; one of the three barrels was new): Deep, ripe aromas of fresh apricot and clove. Very rich, sappy and powerful but shy and quite backward today, conveying outstanding breadth and a strong impression of soil and solidity. The sweetest of these young ’17s in…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(following an early malolactic fermentation, Leroux is intentionally keeping this wine reductive, describing this as the Coche technique): Very reduced aromas of smoke, minerals and clove. Fat, smoky, salty wine with terrific pliancy and depth. A bit lower-toned than some of these 2016s but large-scaled, strong and in need of time in bottle. Musky, smoky…