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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Tour Martillac vindicates itself as perhaps the "insiders' choice" from Pessac-Léognan. It has a well defined bouquet with blackberry, cassis, black olive and estuarine scents bouquet that is very complex and involving. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a pinch of black pepper towards the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium red. Slightly medicinal aromas of black cherry, licorice, tobacco leaf and earth. Spicy and firmly built, with fresh acidity giving the flavors of tobacco leaf, herbs and spices a rather stern mien today. Finishes a tad green, with drying tannins. I’m not sure where this can go in bottle.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet that has held up much better than the 1999 Langoa Barton, brimming over with vivacious black fruit, wild strawberry and cedar; hints of tobacco emerge with time in the glass. This is classic Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black olive, tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Perfumed, brooding aromas of blueberry, blackberry and mint. Cooler, tighter and more austere than the Langoa, with solid density and an almost medicinal aspect. Less obviously sweet today than the Langoa-Barton, but has a more serious tannic structure for aging. Rather backward for a ’99, and in a tough stage today.

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(a blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot and 9% petit verdot; 3.55 pH; 13.5% alcohol): Deep purple-ruby. Slightly reticent, medicinal aromas of cassis, ink, minerals and fresh herbs. Pure, fresh and clean, with a straightforward delivery but sneaky concentration to the blackberry and graphite flavors. Juicy acidity keeps the flavors light and lively and…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Domaine de Chevalier is a vintage that I have tasted several times. Now at a decade old, it has retained a surprisingly deep colour. The bouquet is divine: pure blackberry and pomegranate aromas, cedar and cigar box, its floral element seeming to have receded in recent years. The palate is medium-bodied and appears…