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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot) Bright ruby-red. Pungent, musky aromas of black cherry, licorice and shoe polish lifted by a violet topnote. Juicy and sweet but also firmly built, with decent purity of fruit but only modest flavor intensity. Finishes with solid tannic spine for the year. Nicely…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Le Petit Cheval has quite a high-toned, iodine-tinged bouquet with more blue fruit than expected. The palate has a fine grip and good backbone, and features cedar- and graphite-infused black fruit. I admire the density here. Impressive for a 20-year-old second wine, with a touch of clove and allspice toward the finish. Perfect…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

Conterno’s 2015 Barolo Cerretta is sensual and inviting, until the firm Nebbiolo tannins kick in. Bright floral and orange zest notes perk up a core of sweet red cherry fruit. Medium in body and beautifully persistent, the Cerretta is positively stellar. Just as it was from barrel, the 2015 is so refined, so alluringly young,…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good full red. Slightly reduced but complex aromas of black fruits, pepper, violet and minerals. Supple and deep, with a fine-grained texture and solid underlying structure. As creamy as this is, it remains light on its feet. Finishes very long and subtle, with a whiplash of pepper and mineral flavors conveying an impression of strong…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Inky purple. Explosively perfumed, seductive aromas of raspberry, mulberry, potpourri and burning incense. Candied floral and sweet dark berry flavors saturate the palate, with fine-grained tannins lending shape. Tightens up on the finish, with the red berry and floral notes echoing. A real mouthful of sweet, energetic fruit: I’d give it some time to move…

A First Look at the 2004 Barolos (Dec 2007)

Ceretto’s 2004 Barolo Brunate is made in a very quirky style. This silky- textured Barolo reveals a liqueur-like quality to its super-ripe cherries, menthol and sweet toasted oak. Slightly advanced aromas and flavors and its moderate concentration suggest it may not be especially long-lived but it is a pretty wine to drink now over the…