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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Cos d’Estournel was showing wonderfully when I last tasted it at the vertical in 2018, yet five years on, I wonder whether that point in time represented its apex? Here, it has a concentrated bouquet with mulberry, stewed plums, touches of licorice and leather, slowly moving into its secondary stage. The palate is…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Saturated ruby-red. Brilliant nose features kirsch, dark berries, and iron scents, with an overlay of perfumed, spicy oak. Lush, sweet and fragrant in the mouth, with a sappy freshness; clearly made from low yields. Finishes with toothcoating but suave tannins and remarkable persistence; stains the palate with spicy bitter cherry and citric skin flavor. As…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Medium-deep red. Plum, currant, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Lush and sweet, with moderate density and harmonious acidity. Perhaps a bit livelier in the mouth than on the nose. Not nearly as ripe on the back end as the ’98, but has sneaky finishing flavor.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Canon-la-Gaffelière has quite a deep color with little aging on the rim. The earthy, rustic bouquet features iron filings, meat juices and wild mushroom notes; it is certainly very different from today’s wines. The well-balanced palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and leather and chestnut notes, and a little austere in style with…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again (Jan 2014)

The 2010 Gaia & Rey is just beginning to show the early signs of aromatic complexity. Honey, nectarine, white truffle and orange peel meld into more tropical notes in a gorgeous, layered Chardonnay. The minerality of the vintage is most apparent on the finish, but otherwise this is a fairly voluptuous, generous Chardonnay. Elements of…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good bright green-tinged yellow. Distinctly more Burgundian on the nose than the riper 2001, offering notes of fresh peach, apple and nut oil. Energetic and intense in the mouth, with a sexy sulfide nuance I associate with Burgundy. Finishes with noteworthy finesse, length and grip. An excellent showing, and built to age.