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Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1979 Pichon-Lalande was born in an era when Michel Delon of Léoville Las-Cases assisted at the property and lent his magic touch. It has a lovely, leafy and autumnal bouquet plus touches of meat juices. Like the 1976, it seems founded on the Merlot rather than the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a smooth texture,…

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)

Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of pencil shaving, dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice flavors, but more than anything else, the 1990 is…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Latour is a First Growth intent on giving as much pleasure as ‘vinously’ possible. Undeniably, there is quite a bit of brettanomyces on the nose that renders this the most animally and feral of Château Latour wines in recent years and yet you cannot help but fall for its almost garish charms. Underneath…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium-deep red. Great vibrant nose of redcurrant, licorice, minerals and tobacco, along with a minty austerity. Thick and large-scaled, like an essence of Pauillac. Really explodes in the middle palate. Incredible unfolding peacock tail of a finish. A monumental, powerfully structured wine with great long-term aging potential. Drink 2008 through 2040.

Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)

The 2005 Lascombes, served from jeroboam, has a well-defined nose with scents of blackberry, brine and cassis aromas percolating up with time, nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied, with hints of menthol and liquorice infusing the black fruit. There is good density here though it is just missing a little finesse toward the finish. I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(52% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 3% petit verdot) Good bright ruby. Blueberry and licorice on the nose, lifted by spicy oak. Chewy, lush and dense, but with a sappy quality giving shape to the fruit. Very tactile, solid wine with a saline quality suggesting energetic extraction. But this offers impressive mouth coverage and finishes…