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2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Medium-deep red-ruby. Roasted, tarry red fruits, animal fur and chocolate on the nose; as vibrant and vinous as a barrel sample. Extremely lush and concentrated, and already highly aromatic in the mouth, with notes of red and black fruits, roasted nuts, spices, chocolate and tobacco. Beautifully integrated acidity. Finishes very long, with substantial, very fine…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Very good deep red-ruby. Roasted plum and black fruit aromas, with notes of violet, dark chocolate, smoke and game. Fat, lush and superripe; shows more of a roasted character than the 2001, but also boasts solid acidity. A huge, full-blown wine with exotic notes of roasted herbs. Finishes with big, dusty tannins and excellent length.

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Deep, saturated ruby. Subtle, complex, lively aromas of blackberry, flowers, licorice, spices and mint. Rich, supple and concentrated, if not as supersweet or densely structured as some outstanding recent vintages of Graham. But this nicely balanced port boasts lovely mouthwatering vinosity and enough backbone for medium-term aging. Finishes spicy and very long, with strong black…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pontet-Canet is a heady, exotic wine. Inky dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, licorice, spice and tobacco are front and center. Readers will find an unabashedly opulent, full-throttle 2005 with quite a bit more oak influence and overall extraction than is the norm these days. Even so, the 2005 is a young, young wine with…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, enticing aromas of black raspberry, licorice, minerals, bitter chocolate, lead pencil and pungent cedar; just this side of exotic. Wonderfully silky, sweet and thick, with a powerful minerality framing the currant, graphite and spice flavors. This boasts superb inner-mouth energy and great length, with the full, ripe tannins totally enrobed by…