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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Very pale, bright color. Knockout nose of lemon, orange blossom, chalk, minerals and flowers offers great lift; pristine and vibrant. Wonderfully ripe, pure and perfumed in the mouth, with penetrating, sappy acidity contributing to the impression of structure and cut. Very intense lemon, lime, mineral and floral flavors complicated by an exotic suggestion of guava….

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The estate’s 1996 Brut Femme de Champagne is really quite pretty in the way it balances some of the more mature notes from extended lees aging with the freshness of the vintage. To be sure, this isn’t a blockbuster 1996, but the Femme de Champagne offers plenty of class and elegance in an approachable, delicate…

Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)

The 1996 L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne has a deep amber hue. It has a very Tokaji nose, well defined, but maybe not as complex as more recent vintages. Barley sugar, creme caramel and caramelised pear, a touch of peach skin. The palate is very well balanced, unctuous and maybe just missing a bit of acidity on…

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Bright deep ruby. Blackberry, violet, tar, shoe polish and game on the nose, plus a light floral note; at once vibrant and surmuri. Superconcentrated, remarkably intense flavors of crystallized black cherry, cassis and licorice. An extremely persistent wine of noteworthy finesse, yet also one with a powerful structure for aging. One of the standouts of…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

(bottled in 2002) Full medium red. Reticent but highly nuanced nose combines hints of superripe red berries, minerals, truffle, mocha and tar. Rich, thick and velvety, with superb ripeness supported by underlying minerality. Wonderfully dense Barolo, at once round and solid. Very long, slow-mounting finish features big, broad, horizontal tannins. Giacomo told me that this…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Lafite-Rothschild is surprisingly dark in colour. It also has a surprisingly concentrated bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and brine. Hints of steaming cups of espresso percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little chewiness on the entry. Quite briny and saline, a little rustic in terms of tannic profile and perhaps…