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2016 Northern Rhône Whites: Excellent but Often Scarce (May 2018)

Bright straw-gold. Aromas of poached pear and yellow peach are complicated by orange zest, honey and floral nuances. Sappy and broad in the mouth, offering ripe, mineral-laced orchard and pit fruit flavors, along with a suggestion of orange zest that adds bite on the back half. Clings with excellent tenacity on a long, chewy finish…

Alsace & Luxembourg: 2017s and Late-Released 2016s (Jan 2019)

Golden-tinged yellow. Almond paste, beurre blanc, lemon curd, sweet spices, coconut and toast, complicated by a hint of petrol. Bright and acid, offering lively flavors similar to the aromas. A hint of noble rot is typical of the vintage, as it was in 1998. This is very complex, especially on the nose, and boasts a…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes has a vivid bouquet with ebullient redcurrant and cranberry fruit that "jump" out of the glass, yet the aromatics remain tender and graceful, to use two words uttered by François Mitjavile in describing the vintage. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannins, dark berry fruit laced with clove…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Rich, dense and explosive, with tremendous power the 2017 is positively stellar from the very first taste. Macerated dark cherries, sage, spice, star anise, orange zest, mint and new leather give the 2017 an exotic, racy feel that is hard…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…