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Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

(14.1% alcohol): Saturated dark red with ruby tones. Bordeaux-like scents of currant, black cherry, blackberry, cedar, mocha and spicecake, with a cool medicinal note adding interest. This very suave, fine-grained wine starts closed but juicy, then builds steadily along its length (like a good Cuban cigar!), with flavors of dark berries, licorice and sweet spices…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, plum syrup, hot stones, Cuban tobacco and sexy oak tones. Large-scaled, lush and seamless; pure silk in the mouth. More layered and longer than La Mission ’99. Finishes with broad, lush tannins and excellent persistence.

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Moderately saturated medium red. Roasted plum and raspberry, smoky oak, hot stones and tobacco on the nose. Sweet and vinous, with plenty of personality and structure. Firmly tannic finish features good cut and length. This is excellent for the vintage.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Haut-Brion is a very fine vintage from the estate, although it is probably overshadowed by the overachieving 1998. This bottle has the sensuality on the nose that I have observed before but is a little more opulent than I recall, yet very delineated with black truffle, cedar and cigar humidor infusing the black…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou can be a stupendous wine…or it can leave you scratching your head. On the nose, this bottle shows a little more brettanomyces than others that I have tasted, though it dissipates with aeration to reveal blackberry, mint and light herbal notes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little chewy…