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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, saturated ruby-red. Intriguing nose melds cassis, shoe polish, iodine and mint, along with a faint sweaty quality. Thick, sweet and large but a bit blocky and inelegant. Still quite young and bound-up. A backward, solidly structured wine that finishes with fairly tough tannins. Needs at least another five years of bottle aging. Drink 2007…

Napa Valley’s Thrilling 2018s & 2019s, Parts 1 & 2 (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Cabernet Shiraz Bin 600 is the entry-level wine in this new range from Penfolds. Bold and racy to the core, the 2018 possesses terrific richness and tons of allure. Blackberry jam, dried flowers, espresso, licorice and leather build in a sumptuous, opulent wine that will be very easy to drink upon release. The…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguette has plenty of vibrant red fruit on the nose, mixed with earth and orange rind. The palate is well balanced in an easy going style with touches of brown spice interlacing the red fruit on its poised finish. Fine.

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again (Jan 2014)

The 2010 Barolo Bussia Dardi/Le Rose from Poderi Colla emerges from the glass with dried rose petals, licorice, tobacco, mint, dried cherries, plums and coffee beans, all super-classic Nebbiolo scents. Beguiling and layered in the glass, the 2010 continues to open up beautifully over time, I can’t wait to see how it ages. At the…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

(98% grenache, from the estate’s oldest vines) Full ruby-red. Pretty, tangy aromas of spicy red fruits, minerals and sweet oak. Tightly wound and high-pitched, with very intense, fresh fruit flavors and plenty of density. The substantial, even tannins dust the teeth. Very long finish boasts lovely sweetness of fruit. Very much in the style of…

Focus on California (May 2001)

Saturated red. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, smoked meat, roasted tomato, earth and tobacco leaf; deeper and more complex than the Napanook bottling. A step up in complexity, vibrancy and precision of flavor. Silky and fairly deep, with slightly truffley chocolate and tobacco flavors. Finishes with big but suave tannins and a hint of licorice. This…