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A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2010 Figeac has a deep hue. The nose is quite introverted at first, with dark berry fruit, incense, touches of fig and mulberry. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gorgeous pure fruit, mulberry and dark plum, gentle considering the vintage. This 2010 has softened in the last couple of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, flowers and clove on the precise, vibrant nose. Then tight and imploded on the palate, with an almost minty, peppery austerity to the black and blue fruit flavors; hardly your typical 2010! This very pure, spicy Saint-Emilion has the structure of a cabernet, and its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Ripe, expressive nose combines cassis, roasted plum and coconut. Supple, very concentrated and large-scaled; actually rather backward today even if the terrific ripeness is clear to see. Quintessential firm Pauillac backbone is covered by flesh. Will rely more on its tongue-dusting tannins than its acidity to age in bottle. This wine firmed up…

The Many Facets of Rioja (Nov 2015)

Bright ruby-red. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of candied cherry, vanilla, mocha, cured tobacco and spicecake, with a suave potpourri note becoming stronger in the glass. Offers sweet, penetrating cherry-cola and lavender pastille flavors complicated by hints of smoky minerals and candied licorice. The long, subtly tannic finish delivers noteworthy energy and focus, leaving suave spicecake…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Opaque ruby. Potent, mineral-laced raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by suave floral and spice qualities, picking up white pepper and cola accents with air. Seamless, round and sweet on the palate, offering intense red berry preserve and floral pastille flavors with a touch of allspice. Finishes sappy and precise, with velvety tannins and a…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2002)

Dense red-purple color. Heady, highly concentrated peppery aroma steeped in dense, dark plum and cassis and backed by assertive yet harmonious oak notes of cedar, chocolate and vanilla. Robust and very concentrated yet finely tuned; dripping with layered, juicy, essence-like dark shiraz fruits and wrapped in velvety but firm tannins. Shows a polished but perhaps…