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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The bouquet on the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is to die for, offering cloves and balsamic spices that give way to crushed cherries, sage and fresh mint. It’s elegant yet lifted in feel, with silky textures carrying the ripe wild berry fruits effortlessly across the palate. Saline-minerals combine with grippy tannins toward the close, slowing…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Galatrona is intriguing. Layers of espresso, sweet herbs, mocha and rich, dark fruit emerge from this beautifully-delineated wine. The 2008 isn’t a blockbuster Galatrona, rather it comes across as quite classic in its mid-weight personality and Bordeaux-like flavor profile. I would not at all be surprised to see this wine develop beautifully over…

A Tuscan Icon – Petrolo Galatrona: 1998-2012 (Sep 2016)

Dark ruby. Dark berries, espresso, fresh herbs, and rich, dark cocoa on the perfumed nose. Then refined and light on its feet, with hints of cedar and graphite complicating blackcurrant and bay leaf flavors; this midweight Galatrona is very Pomerol-like. It’s also a Galatrona that is developing nicely, exuding a classic cooler-climate Bordeaux-blend refinement. This…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Reticent, slightly medicinal aromas of crushed stone and pear. Round and rich but lifted by a strong stony element. The mid-palate is dominated by a flavor of liquid stone. This, too, is rather inexpressive and austere today.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

(14% alcohol-but no higher than usual, notes Ambroise) Good full ruby. Deep, porty, liqueur-like aromas of black cherry and bitter chocolate. Sweet, broad and dense; not heavy but somewhat high-toned, with porty black fruit flavors given shape by surprisingly lively acidity. Strong suggestion of fruity dark chocolate. The tannins saturate the entire palate.