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2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

Subtly complex aromas of lemon ice, mint and nutty, spicy oak. Rich, sweet and chewy, with a powerful minerality giving it great penetration for the vintage. This boasts wonderful inner-mouth perfume. Less obviously ripe than the young 2002 but possesses terrific lurking sweetness. Finishes very long, with notes of oatmeal and vanillin oak.

La Paulée 2009 (Part 1) (Mar 2009)

The 2001 Meursault-Perrières was sweet, floral and generous, though it was clearly on the young side.

Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Latour (Mar 2016)

From the moment it is first opened the 1982 Château Latour is magical. Deep and still vibrant in color, but showing the translucence of age, the 1982 opens with intense, soaring aromatics that hint at what is to come. One taste is all it takes to confirm that the first impression is spot-on. This bottle,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Latour has always been a quintessential Bordeaux and a quintessential Latour. This is just as composed and detailed as the finest bottles that I have encountered, bridled with captivating blackberry, graphite and cedar aromas that are brilliantly focused. Perhaps it is not quite as showy as it was a few years ago, yet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Latour is the most consistent of the First Growths in this auspicious vintage. Tasted from both bottle and magnum in the UK in recent months, this note comes from an ex-château magnum tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. It exudes class and majesty on the nose with its copious but brilliantly focused…