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2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Very pale color. Orange and lemon pith, wet stone and a whiff of marzipan on the slightly reduced nose. Wonderfully creamy and fine-grained in the mouth, saturating the entire palate with orange, dusty stone and ginger flavors. Superb citric cut keeps it fresh and extends the very long finish. Outstanding wine, and true to its…

Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

Bright citrus, white flowers, pear and slate are all alive in the glass. The 2011 Chablis Clos is beautifully expressive to site, but also a bit more approachable than normal. Haunting aromatics, layered fruit and a simply ethereal finish are the hallmarks. The 2011 doesn’t reach the heights of either the 2010 or 2012, but…

Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK (Feb 2019)

The 2011 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is as impressive as the 2010. The intense, multi-faceted nose presents apple blossom, granite, Williams pear and vervain tea aromas; you feel as if each scent is unwrapped by aeration, one by one. The palate is perfectly balanced with a taut line of acidity, quite stoic and flinty at first…

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Pale straw-yellow. Classic pungent Clos aromas of lemon, lime, white pepper, noble herbs and minerals. Silky and vibrant, offering impressive energy for the vintage. The rich, complex flavors of underripe pineapple, stony minerality, white pepper and flowers really resound on the very long, dense back end.

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Meursault Genevrières is quite soft and approachable for this site. Surprisingly nuanced and round in its contours, the 2011 is quite pretty, but I miss the energy that is typical of Genevrières.

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2011 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has the edge over the Puligny Les Enseigneres, though both share that trademark struck match scent on the nose. Yet this has more complexity and terroir expression – exuding mineralité and tension. The palate is utterly harmonious with great depth, perhaps not quite as complex as Coche-Dury’s top-tier…