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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Cos d'Estournel is a deep, powerful wine. That has been true on both times I have tasted it recently. Readers will have to be patient. Those who can afford it will be rewarded with a towering, statuesque Saint-Estèphe. With a bit of air the fruit starts to emerge, but this is a very…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Cos d'Estournel was picked from September 23 to October 7 at 43hL/ha, matured in a judicious 55% new oak, and bottled in July 2021 by gravity. It is more backward on the nose, and there’s nothing wrong with that for a Grand Vin. Biding its time, it opens to deliver lovely, very pure…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Cos d’Estournel is tasted from two bottles, the first not representative. The second has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit, sous-bois, and light spicy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted tannins, fresh and tensile, gradually building with a mineral-rich and very persistent finish. Vibrant and energetic, this Cos d’Estournel…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Batailley was picked September 30 to October 15 and matured in 55–60% new oak. It has a well-defined, focused bouquet, a quintessential Pauillac nose of black fruit infused with cedar and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of black pepper on the entry and delivers good depth and fine grip. This…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Batailley is quite the powerhouse. Even so, it offers fine balance. Broad tannins enshroud a core of dark-toned fruit, licorice, spice, black olive, lavender and sage. Batailley is a rare 2021 that is going to need time to come together. Its intensity, breadth and overall persistence are impressive. There’s real textural resonance here,…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Batailley almost revels in a cooler, challenging vintage like this. It has a well-defined, clean, fresh, classically styled bouquet, with a pencil shaving-infused black fruit aromatic profile that could only come from Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, very harmonious with white pepper and sage, gently building in the mouth toward…