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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium red-ruby. Very ripe but subdued nose hints at mulberry, caramel, toffee, iron and nutty oak. Very ripe, broad and deep but quite closed today; lush and full but classically dry and light on its feet. Red berry and mineral flavors coat the palate. Builds impressively on the very long, gripping finish. I would not…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

I tasted many superb 2017s, but only a few that are viscerally thrilling and emotional. The 2017 Lafleur is one of a handful of wines that ascends into the stratosphere. Rich and exotically beautiful, the 2017 possesses off-the-charts intensity, tremendous aromatic depth and an impossibly long finish. A rush of dark plum, licorice, leather and…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Lafleur is very deep, almost opaque in colour. This has a very intense bouquet that clearly shrugs of any risk of frost to produce copious black fruit laced with white pepper, clove, truffle and crushed stone. It actually seems to close in a little with aeration instead of opening up. The palate is…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2017 Sassicaia shows the natural richness and intensity of the year while retaining its mid-weight sense of balance and overall poise. A burst of super-ripe red cherry/plum fruit makes a strong opening statement. Mocha, cinnamon, leather and dried herbs appear later, adding aromatic lift. The 2017 is a fairly immediate Sassicaia. Even so, it…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cheval Blanc has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, a pencil box and a touch of Xmas cake. It does not take too much aeration before it develops further aromas of black truffle and morels. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy, ripe and tensile with red peppercorn hints toward…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold, with a hint of copper. Expansive and powerful on the nose, displaying scents of honey, light toffee, fresh fig and baked apples. Dense and thick, with serious heft; emphatically not an aperitif style of Champagne. The flavors of ripe apple and pear, singed butter and baking spices are concentrated and deep. Boasts a…