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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 d’Issan is the first vintage with the parcels acquired from Pontac-Lynch, located just outside the Clos d’Issan. It contains a few rows of Malbec whose quality surprised Emmanuel Cruse, hence 1% in the Grand Vin. It also includes Petit Verdot planted in 1948. It is quintessentially Margaux on the nose with pressed violet…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 d’Issan is a total knock-out. Spectacularly ripe and intense, the 2015 exudes richness in all of its dimensions. Super-ripe dark plum, lavender, spice, savory herbs, iron, smoke and new leather add myriad shades of nuance to this super-ripe, decidedly hedonistic Margaux. A powerful, dense wine, the 2015 is going to need a number…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2015 Château d’Issan has an intense bouquet, even more than the 2010 when juxtaposed side-by-side, with multilayered black fruit, bilberry and light marine scents and hints of wild heather that I did not notice three years ago. The palate is beautifully balanced with very supple, lithe tannins. There is more red fruit compared to…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Hosanna is rich, bold and dramatic, with all of its customary intensity on display. Black cherry, blueberry jam, plum, lavender and exotic spice overtones crescendo as this dramatic, sweeping Pomerol shows off its grandiose personality. Ample and voluptuous, but with plenty of underlying structure, it possesses fabulous depth as well as pedigree. A…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Haut-Batailley is a potent, muscular Pauillac that will need a few years in bottle, at a minimum, to be at its best. There's real presence and depth here, but all the wine's energy feels like it is focused inward. Dark red/purplish fruit, leather, menthol, spice and wild flowers fill out the layers as…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Haut-Batailley has a precise and quite understated bouquet with mineral-rich black fruit, cedar and mint, just a very slight floral note developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with graphite infused black fruit, classic in style, very well balanced with wonderful tension. It fans out effortlessly on the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at…