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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Ruby-red. Sappy, liqueur-like aromas of cherry, raspberry coulis, roast coffee and exotic wood spices. Wonderfully sweet and mouthfilling, but with harmonious acidity giving shape and clarity to the flavors. Finishes quite long, with fine tannins. Not at all overextracted; in fact, here the tannins seem a bit sweeter than those of the ’99. Still unfolding;…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Pavie was Gerard Perse’s second vintage after buying the property and it was actually matured in 200% new oak. Now at two decades, it continues to be attired with a fresh and very attractive bouquet, blackberry, mulberry, clove and bay leaf, just a touch of Italian delicatessen in the background. I like the…

2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)

Palish yellow color. Reticent aromas of orange oil and vanillin oak. Quite dry and reserved, with a fine-grained texture and notes of peach and flowers. This vineyard produces wine with delicate aromas and is always among the most affected by the bottling, notes Morey.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has an austere nose that demands coaxing from the glass; struck flint and sea spray scents, cool, calm and collected. The palate is taut on the entry, then fans out with glee, notes of dessicated orange peel, white peach and tangerine, a lovely bitterness that counterbalances the concentration on…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Latour is a vintage that I have not encountered for four or five years. It has a pH of 3.80 and a yield of 38hl/ha, representing 58% of the total crop. Interestingly, this includes 14% vin de presse compared to the 9 to 10% used nowadays. It has a classic Latour bouquet of…