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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium ruby. This is downright exotic on the nose: mocha, coffee, graphite and coconut, lifted by sandalwood and cinnamon spice. Then dense, supple and fine-grained without coming across as heavy. Suggestion of aromatic tree bark. A seamless wine that spreads out horizontally on the back end and finishes with very fine tannins. A bit…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Mouton Rothschild has a powerful nose with slightly smudged summer fruit, leather, dates, forest floors and a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with powdery tannins and better acidity than the Clerc Milon. It’s quite tertiary, with just a little VA on the roasted coffee bean finish. The question is…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has the richest nose of the five examples served blind from this climat, featuring pineapple, orange zest, touches of mango and later honeysuckle and chamomile, all very attractive and perfumed. The palate is well balanced with good density and weight, offering mango, passion fruit and stem ginger notes….

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles is another marvelous 2008 from Bruno Clair. All of the elements are there in the glass, they just need time to emerge. This is a precise, cool Chambolle laced with the most exquisite of aromatics and a precise, clean finish. A wine of almost painful beauty, the 2008 Veroilles will require…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good deep red. Withdrawn nose hints at blackberry. Juicy but lean flavors of dark berries and bitter chocolate come across as a bit dry today. Lacks finesse for Chambolle and finishes a bit skinny.

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Pale straw-yellow. Powerful, mineral-accented orchard and pit fruits on the nose; a suave floral nuance builds as the wine stretches out. Sappy, penetrating and seamless in texture, offering vibrant tangerine, Anjou pear and white peach flavors and a sneaky hint of honeysuckle. Shows excellent focus and emphatic mineral cut on the finish, which lingers with…