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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Segla, which was omitted from my in-bottle report, has a rich and opulent nose with sloes, black cherries and violet petal aromas; it’s fruit forward and sensual. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins and is slightly granular in texture with underlying salinity, black plum and just a hint of allspice. It is…

Moving On: Lafon-Rochet 1955-2017 (Jun 2023)

The 1996 Lafon-Rochet shows slight bricking on the rim. It’s a little rustic with black fruit, sandalwood, and sage on the nose, but this is certainly showing good vigor after 25 years. The palate is balanced with tannins, a little “sauvage” now, mushroom and mint, fennel and black tea, a slight dryness creeping in at…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Clos Floridene is a very pretty, nuanced white. Almonds, dried flowers, mint and apricot notes are all pushed forward in this succulent, inviting wine from Denis and Florence Dubourdieu. The creamy, expressive finish only adds to the wine’s considerable appeal. I very much admire the interplay of richness and tension.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Wild aromas of redcurrant, minerals, leather, gunflint and game; developing faster than either of the more recent vintages are likely to do. A wine of modest density and fat, and currently rather austere, but possesses very good vinosity and length. Tannins are slightly dry but fine.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted since 2009, when I was smitten by its Burgundian texture and fleshy finish. Ten years on, this bottle is disappointing. The sweet, almost prune-like nose caught me completely by surprise. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and low acidity. This is a “big-boned”…